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Conspicuous Consumption, Luxury Products and Counterfeit Market in the UK

   

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CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION, LUXURY PRODUCTS

AND COUNTERFEIT MARKET IN THE UK

Trang Huyen My Pham, Muhammad Ali Nasir

Leeds Beckett University, Faculty of Business and Law,

Leeds, United Kingdom

Abstract:

The fast growth of fashion brands and the popularity of counterfeit

goods has posed certain challenges to the existing and new luxury fashion

brand players. This study elaborates on the factors driving the market

for counterfeit products in the UK. The data collected by means of

survey questionnaires from 306 respondents and empirical techniques

including descriptive and inferential statistics (correlation and multiple

regression analysis), have shown that the consumers have a negative

attitude towards counterfeit luxury products. However, they showed

fewer tendencies to seek for a brand whose counterfeit cannot easily

be found and preferred to buy a genuine rather than a counterfeit. In

terms of frequency of purchase, reversion to counterfeit has negative

impact, unlike the tendency to seek a brand whose counterfeit is hard

to find. The overall results show that the attitude and acceptance of

counterfeit do not greatly prevail in the market. However, about 27%

of respondents demonstrated either a positive or a neutral tendency

towards counterfeit products, which could have serious implications

for the luxury goods market.

Key words:

luxury fashion brands,

consumer choice,

counterfeit products,

conspicuous consumption.

* E-mail: m.a.nasir@leedsbeckett.ac.uk

EJAE 2016, 13(1): 72-83

ISSN 2406-2588

UDK: 339.192(410)

658.62.018.2

DOI: 10.5937/
ejae13-10012
Original paper/Originalni naučni rad

I
NTRODUCTION
Luxury
1 fashion brands are no longer the privi-
lege of the upper class. The emerging middle class is

being more open-minded, their demand for luxury

fashion brands is increasing along with their income,

as they are becoming potential consumers of luxury

fashion brands (Kauppinen-Räisänen
et al., 2014).
The retail sector is a major contributor to the UK

economy, employing a total of 4.3 million people

in 2012, which is 15.9% of the overall population

1 “Luxury is derived from the Latin word Luxus, which

translates to “excess”, thus luxury products in general refer

to products that lead to condition of abundance, things

that provide pleasure or comfort but are not absolutely

necessary” (Fuchs
et al., 2013).
(Chris, 2014), and luxury fashion constitutes an

important component of this sector. However, lux
-
ury brand companies are threatened by the coun
-
terfeit products market. In this regard, the Global

Financial Crisis in 2008 is marked as the historical

key point. Timberlake
et al. (2014) argued that in
the post-crisis period and recession world, luxury

customers have sought products with an affordable

price. Concomitantly, with luxury fashion brands,

differentiating and adding extra value is important

to improve their competitive advantages. To that

end, it is fundamental to understand the implica
-
tions of counterfeit luxury products and the at
-
titude of consumers towards them.

73
There is a growing presence of counterfeit

goods in the UK, which may pose serious prob
-
lems for the company, consumers and the overall

economy (Okonkwo, 2007). Sonmez
et al. (2012)
argue that it destroys the rarity of luxury fashion

products that impact customers’ decision-mak
-
ing. In the current climate, luxury fashion brands

do not only compete with other luxury fashion

brands, but also with counterfeit manufactur
-
ers. Although certain efforts have been made to

search for manufacturers of counterfeit goods and

prevent their activities, this situation has not im
-
proved and even seems to be deteriorating (David,

2011). From the customer’s perspective, it might

be that counterfeiting influences customers’ views

about genuine luxury fashion items. Therefore, it

is necessary to be able to understand customers’

opinions about counterfeit. The aim of this study

is to become conversant and gain better under
-
standing of the current counterfeit luxury brand

market in the UK and to identify the key factors

that customers believe have the greatest bearing on

the purchase of counterfeit luxury fashion brands.

There are numerous studies that seek to identify

the main dimensions of luxury, such as Fionda
et al.
(2008), Berthon
et al. (2009), Christodoulides et al.
(2009), and Hudders,
et al. (2013). More specifical-
ly, in the context of luxury fashion products, Walley

et al
. (2013) observed the key dimensions of luxury
from a UK consumers’ perspective. Various studies

have been conducted in terms of particular factors

affecting customers’ choice, such as price (Hwang

et al
., 2013), quality (Husic et al., 2009) and brand
reputation, quality and appropriateness (Derry
et
al
., 2014). A vast majority of research is focused
on defining reasons for purchasing luxury fashion

brands (status promotion, self-image, gifting its

owners). We have some evidence on the counter
-
feit luxury products, such as the study by Doss and

Robinson (2013) which compared and contrasted

the attitude of young US females towards luxury

fashion brands and their counterfeits
2. However,
2 Doss and Robinson (2013) found that the perceptions of the

luxury brand were significantly higher than those for the

counterfeits of that brand. Moreover, the luxury perceptions

this study is not gender specific, nor it compares

the perception of luxury fashion brands with their

counterfeits, but it is rather investigating the atti
-
tude of British consumers towards the counterfeits

of luxury products, and not the counterfeits of the

products they have used. There isn’t sufficient evi
-
dence on the attitude of British consumers towards

counterfeit luxury products. The UK luxury fashion

market makes a considerable contribution to the

global market and national economy, while previ
-
ously cited figures give some idea about its size.

Having that in mind, the study attempts to find out

the reasons that customers take into consideration

when buying a counterfeit luxury fashion product.

Specifically, it explores the most important factors

that affect customer’s choice of luxury fashion

brands in the UK by posing three
statements to
the respondents of survey questionnaires:

a) Do they mind if the product is counterfeit

(no effect on decision)?

b) Do they seek the brand whose fake version

is hard to find in the market?

c) Would they buy the fake rather than the

genuine product?

The answers to these three questions on a five
-
point Likert scale range from strongly agree to

strongly disagree and will help us to understand

the consumers’ attitude towards counterfeit prod
-
ucts. Moreover, we would also observe the impact

of these attitudes on the frequency of purchase of

luxury products. Nevertheless, this treatise is an

effort to understand customers’ attitudes to luxury

fashion brands in terms of their current counter
-
feits in the UK market. In the next section, the

authors will examine the existing evidence on the

subject and discuss research methodology to pro
-
vide an insight into the methods being employed,

prior to reporting the findings and concluding

remarks. The novelty of the research should be

emphasized and the subject is well-documented

in the up-to-date literature.

of those whose last handbag acquisition was a luxury brand

significantly differed from the luxury perceptions of those

whose last handbag acquisition was a counterfeit brand.

EJAE 2016
13 (1) 72-83
Pham, T.H.M., Nasir, M.A.
Conspicuous consumtion, luxury products and counterfeit market

74
LUXURY BRAND & COUNTERFEIT

People purchase luxury fashion brands for a

number of reasons. Firstly, they need clear hi
-
erarchy to define their high position in society

(Kapferer, 2014). Secondly, luxury items link to

psychological values, as people in the upper-class

desire to distinguish themselves from others, while

people belonging to the lower class attempt to be

perceived as in a higher status, and they consider

luxury consumption as a means of achieving that

(Veblen, 2009). Thirdly, purchasing luxury fashion

products also nurtures owner’s identity and self-

image (Hudders
et al., 2013). Furthermore, people
buy luxury items for self-gifting purposes, as a way

leading to personal reward, compliance (Lourreiro

& Araujo, 2014), relieving stress and cheering up

(Kauppinen-Räisänen
et al., 2014). Moreover, pre-
mium and reliable quality is a reason for consum
-
ing luxury items, as mentioned by Hudders
et al.,
(2013). Fashion consciousness was also stated as

a reason for luxury fashion brands consumption

(Maden
et al., 2015). However, if we look at these
reasons for buying luxury products, the question

imposes as to the number of those that could be

served by counterfeit luxury products whose prices

are not that exorbitant.

By highlighting the main role of the brand’s

name, identity, awareness and loyalty, Okonkwo

(2007) claims that the first thing that comes to a

luxury customer’s mind is “brand”, which probably

describes its history, language and total offerings.

Similarly, Palmer (2009) suggested that custom
-
ers seek their own perceived personality through

brand image. Moreover, brands are chosen when

the image they create matches the needs, values and

lifestyles of customers. Now, the question imposes

as to the number of needs and values that could be

achieved using a counterfeit product. However, the

study by Han
et al. (2010) showed that there are
two groups of luxury consumers. The first group

prefers less prominent luxury brands, while the

second one opts for those more prominent. In the

former group, customers focus on the real quality

and function of luxury products rather than on the

brands with conspicuous signs; the latter one might

lack any deep knowledge of luxury brands and

might be keen on purchasing prominent products

to show off. If that division holds, the latter should

be more prone to accepting the counterfeit, as it

serves the purpose of conspicuous consumption.

There is a growing number of counterfeit prod
-
ucts in today’s marketplace. Counterfeit luxury

goods are known as illegal, low-priced, and often

low-quality replicas of genuine luxury products

(David, 2011). The study by Sophie (2010) con
-
sidered counterfeit as a big issue which might put

the genuine luxury brand market at risk. Although

intellectual property laws are set up to protect the

genuine market of luxury products, the legal sys
-
tem for combating counterfeit products is low in

many countries (David, 2011). It affects the genu
-
ine brand performance, which could be contingent

on the customers’ behavior towards counterfeit

and its acceptability. So, why should a customer

choose a counterfeit? Sonmez
et al. (2012) show
that there might be two situations when consum
-
ers purchase counterfeit luxury products. Firstly,

customers are cheated to buy fake products, and

secondly, customers are supposed to buy them. The

former situation might lead customers to underes
-
timate the quality of the genuine one and look for

other brands. The latter situation can be seen as

customers’ natural desire to possess the product

with physical characteristics similar to the genu
-
ine luxury brand, which might destroy the rarity

of luxury goods. Previously discussed issues may

decrease customers’ demand of luxury goods. How
-
ever, in order to warrant the rarity of the product

and avoid the fake product, many fans of luxury

fashion brands look for another way to avoid these

situations. Namely, instead of buying the promi
-
nent luxury brand, the cheeper one will be chosen.

For instance, Han
et al. (2010) mentioned that one
of the reason for emerging brands is that customers

might choose the less prominent brand rather than

the well-known one as the safe alternative method.

In the second group of customers including those

EJAE 2016
13 (1) 72-83
Pham, T.H.M., Nasir, M.A.
Conspicuous consumtion, luxury products and counterfeit market

75
who are keen on showing off their status, counter
-
feit does not only have a negative status. Namely,

once the customers purchase a fake product, they

may not buy it again due to its poor quality, and

would opt for the genuine one (Ritson, 2010). For

instance, despite having the largest share of coun
-
terfeit products in the handbag market, the Louis

Vuitton sample is considered, even it is well-known

to be in the most favourable position. This might be

the result of customers’ loyalty (Newman & Dhar,

2014). Overall, counterfeit is identified as the rea
-
son for a decreasing demand for luxury products,

but somehow it may or may not persuade custom
-
ers into choosing genuine luxury products. When

analyzing US young female consumers, Doss and

Robinson (2013) found that the perceptions of the

luxury brands were significantly higher than those

for the counterfeits of the same brands. Moreover,

the luxury perceptions of those whose last handbag

acquisition was a luxury brand significantly dif
-
fered from luxury perceptions of those whose last

handbag acquisition was a counterfeit brand. That

implies that the counterfeit may repel the consumer

from the future purchase of the genuine product.

Customers mainly choose to be loyal to genuine

luxury brands due to their quality, as an impor
-
tant feature of any product, which is rather hard

to define. A product is normally evaluated as poor

quality when it fails to meet the buyer’s expecta
-
tions (Palmer, 2009). Accordingly, if the counterfeit

product meets the customer expectations, it should

be considered a quality product. However, along

with tangible there are intangible aspects of qual
-
ity, such as experience and feeling (Yuen & Chan,

2010). Hence, if a counterfeit is doing well on both

aspects, a rational consumer should drive the same

amount of utility from a counterfeit as from an au
-
thentic luxury product. Nevertheless, the net utility

should be great as there is less expenditure involved,

which may cause some disutility
3.
3
Net utility of counterfeit = total utility from consumption
– disutility of regret and guilt

Net utility of authentic = total utility from consumption

– disutility of paying the high prices

On the decision matrix if the utility of counterfeit is > than

utility of authentic one should use counterfeit and other

way round.

Pricing is an important factor which could in
-
fluence the customer’s decision to purchase certain

product (Palmer, 2009). In fact, a luxury fashion

brand differentiates itself from the mass market

fashion brand by setting up premium price strate
-
gies. The luxury customers may use limited access

products, regardless of their price, in order to stand

out from the mass (Husic & Cicic, 2009). Concomi
-
tantly, in the case of luxury brands, customers gen
-
erally accept the premium pricing strategy (Doss

& Robinson, 2013). In the luxury market, higher

price can be more attractive than the lower one,

although their tangible function might not differ

significantly. However, when the price reaches a

certain limited point, the demand will fall down

completely (Olorenshaw, 2011). On the other hand,

when the products’ price is reduced below a certain

limit, consumers may no longer consider it a status

symbol. Accordingly, when the price of a luxury

product becomes too low and easily accessible

and affordable to the middle class, it immediately

loses its rarity (Kuksov & Xie, 2012). That is in

line with the argument put forward by Eaton and

Eswaran (2009) who claimed that customers prefer

that the prices of luxury products remain high or

keep rising. Han
et al. (2010) analyzed different
behavioural patterns among various social classes

including patricians, parvenus and poseurs who

have purchased luxury products. They found that

patricians are willing to pay a premium for luxury

products which have inconspicuous brand names

with high function and quality, while parvenus and

poseurs prefer conspicuous brand names in order

to show off. Their behavior differentiates them

from the upper class they tend to reach. However,

contrary to what the economic theory of price sug
-
gests, the inclusion of counterfeit may shift the

paradigm. Perhaps, the perception and attitude

of consumers is dynamic and the attitude of soci
-
ety changes over time. Timberlake (2014) argued

that the 2008 crisis has blown a new trend into the

fashion luxury market, customers have become

more open-minded and they have chosen the style

mixing high and low-end brand. They are looking

EJAE 2016
13 (1) 72-83
Pham, T.H.M., Nasir, M.A.
Conspicuous consumtion, luxury products and counterfeit market

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