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Added on -2019-09-16

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Problem 2-1. (55 points) Part 1 Waves normally incident on a straight gently sloping beach are recorded to have a wave height of 1.2m and a wave period of 7.5s in water depths of 4m. Assume linear wave theory is valid and neglect reflection and energy dissipation. 1. What is the wave height and wave length in deep water condition? Part 2 Waves with wave height 0.8m and a wave period of 7.5s are obliquely incident on a long straight beach of gently slow. The angle of incidence in deep water is 33°. 2. Use linear wave theory and estimate the wave height and angle of incidence for a water depth of 8m and 4m. Compare the results with that of Part 1. Problem 2-2. (45 points) Determine whether Stokes wave or Cnoidal wave should be used in the following conditions. (Use linear wave theory to calculate Ursell parameter). (The choice of transition from one form of wave theory to another depends on the individual problem.) 1. Wave height: 2.5 m Wave period: 7 s Water depth: 15 m 2. Wave height: 2.5 m Wave period: 7 s Water depth: 5 m 3. Wave height: 2.5 m Wave period: 4 s Water depth: 5 m 4. Wave height: 2.5 m Wave period: 4 s Water depth: 10m

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