Coastal Engineering and Modeling Assignment: Simple Models Analysis

This document presents a comprehensive solution to a coastal engineering assignment focused on simple coastal models. The first part of the assignment involves developing a model to estimate swell wave height at the coast using pressure sensor data and calculating the corresponding shoaling coefficient for different deep-water heights. The solution utilizes the linear wave propagation theory, wave equations, and the dispersion relation equation, with MATLAB code provided for calculations and plotting. The second part of the assignment addresses the design of an impermeable rock groyne structure, applying the Hudson formula to determine the required weight of armour stones for the trunk and head of the structure. The solution includes calculations and MATLAB code for analyzing wave data, generating scatter plots, histograms, cumulative probability distributions, and return period calculations. The analysis helps in understanding the wave height distribution and its relationship with the return period, crucial for coastal structure design.