Fashion History: The Trench Coat's Origins and Evolution

This report investigates the historical origins and contemporary adaptations of the trench coat, a garment that has transcended its military roots to become a fashion icon. The report traces the trench coat's development, beginning with its use by British Army officers, detailing its key features such as the double-breasted design, storm flap, and waterproof fabric. It explores the cultural influences and technological advancements that shaped the coat's design, highlighting the contributions of designers like John Emary and Thomas Burberry. The analysis then examines the trench coat's reappearance in various eras, from its continued use in World War II to its iconic status in 1940s and 1950s cinema and its adoption by women in the 1960s. Furthermore, the report details how the trench coat has been adapted in contemporary fashion since 2000, showcasing examples from celebrities, designers, and retailers, and exploring how modern designers have experimented with different fabrics and styles while retaining key features like wide lapels and belted waists. The report concludes by emphasizing the trench coat's enduring appeal and its continued relevance in the fashion world.

TRENCH COAT

HISTORICAL ORIGINS
• From one of the most iconic pieces of military uniform, to one of the most
iconic pieces in fashion; the trench coat is so much more than an accessory.
The history of the trench coat dates back over 150 years
• The trench coat was used as an item of clothing worn Army officer.
• It was during the Great War that this classic garment took the shape and
style that so many of us still wear today. The classic style of the coat still has
these military influences.

HISTORY OF THE TRENCH COATS DEVELOPMENT
COUNTRY – Britain
• Originally developed for officers of the British Army.
CULTURE – Western Culture

The traditional aesthetic of a trench, consisted of the following:
•A double breasted finish
•10 front buttons
•A storm flap
•Wide lapels
•Button fastened pockets
•Belted at the waist
•Buckled straps around the wrist
•Waterproof
•Made from heavy duty cotton gabardine drill
•Alternatives are leather or poplin
•Insulated lining
•Raglan sleeves
•Lengths ranging from just above the ankles to just above the knees
•Usually in a khaki colour

WHO INVENTED THE TRENCH COAT
Designers and fabric manufacturers developed the material over the years, to
try and make it more breathable, and thus, more wearable.
DESIGNERS:
• Mayfair gentlemen’s clothier, John Emary
• Menswear business designer Thomas Burberry

Characteristics of the trench coat and their uses
The trench coat is so much more than a piece of outerwear. The fabric and the
development has helped officers of the army stay dry and camouflaged. The classic khaki
and beige colours of the trench helped officers to stay as concealed as possible. There are
many other aspects of the coat that were developed specifically to assist soldiers at war.
• The shoulder straps were added to the coat in World War I so that soldiers could attach
items such as their epaulettes and their rank insignia. They would also provide padding
against the butt of a shotgun.
• D rings were added for the purpose of holding equipment such as map cases and swords.
• The large pockets were an essential, as they were used to hold military gear
• Ventilation flaps were added for expelling any unpleasant odours, as well as helping keep
the coats breathable.
• The length of the trench coat was well thought out too. There were made to be short
enough so that they wouldn’t trail too much in the mud and mire. They were also slightly
flared at the waist, to allow maximum movement.
• The back yoke of the coat had crosses, which allowed water and mud to slough off
• Originally, the trench coats came with a removable warm lining. This could be used as a
blanket.
• The collar buttons at the neck were designed so that gas masks could be tucked tightly in
to make them as efficient as possible.
• The cuff straps allowed binoculars to be secured when in use.

How the ‘Trench Coat’ has reappeared over the centuries up
until the 1990’s
• As the war ended, the coats’ popularity stayed intact: officers still wore
them, and they were used again in World War II.
• From here, the trench coat continued its
ascent into style iconography with the slick
gangsters, upstanding gentlemen, detectives,
and never-do-wells of ‘40s and ‘50s cinema.
• The trench coat became popular for women
after the war, too, into the 1960s and then
present day.
It was worn by Marilyn Monroe in her 1960 film
Let’s Make Love and Brigitte Bardot in Roger
Vadim’s Love on a Pillow from 1962. BOGART IN CASABLANCA wearing
a Burberry trench on his back.
The coat from that film is still
iconic and he only wore it in
two scenes.

• The minimalist creation was deconstructed and reconstructed by Jean –
Paul Gaultier. This deconstructed style returns this coming
Spring/Summer 2018 season, having sailed down the runways last
September as brands like Alexander Mc Queen, Balenciaga, and
Margiela all put their own spin on the garment.
• Throughout its life, the trench coat has seen everything from battles to
runways, bayonets to bloggers. It’s been worn up and down, by officers
and accountants, princes and artists, morphing from its signature
gabardine to fabrics like suede, patent leather, and even plastic as
fashion and time continue to move on. Despite our constant style
evolution, however, the trench coat remains a classic we’ll never stop
fighting for.

MAISON MARGIELA
SPRING/SUMMER 2018

TRENCH STYLE
Alexa Chung

Evolution of trench coats
• From wartime essential to a fashion accessory,
the evolution of trench coat has been quite
exiting.
• The coat received massive popularity after it
was worn by Hollywood celebrities in famous
movies (Foreman 2018).