The History and Evolution of Trench Coats

The trench coat has a rich history dating back over 150 years, from its origins as a military uniform to its current status as a fashion icon. This presentation explores the development of the trench coat, its characteristics and uses, and its evolution over time.

TRENCH COAT

HISTORICAL ORIGINS
• From one of the most iconic pieces of military uniform, to one of the most
iconic pieces in fashion; the trench coat is so much more than an accessory.
The history of the trench coat dates back over 150 years
• The trench coat was used as an item of clothing worn Army officer.
• It was during the Great War that this classic garment took the shape and
style that so many of us still wear today. The classic style of the coat still has
these military influences.

HISTORY OF THE TRENCH COATS DEVELOPMENT
COUNTRY – Britain
• Originally developed for officers of the British Army.
CULTURE – Western Culture

The traditional aesthetic of a trench, consisted of the following:
•A double breasted finish
•10 front buttons
•A storm flap
•Wide lapels
•Button fastened pockets
•Belted at the waist
•Buckled straps around the wrist
•Waterproof
•Made from heavy duty cotton gabardine drill
•Alternatives are leather or poplin
•Insulated lining
•Raglan sleeves
•Lengths ranging from just above the ankles to just above the knees
•Usually in a khaki colour

WHO INVENTED THE TRENCH COAT
Designers and fabric manufacturers developed the material over the years, to
try and make it more breathable, and thus, more wearable.
DESIGNERS:
• Mayfair gentlemen’s clothier, John Emary
• Menswear business designer Thomas Burberry

Characteristics of the trench coat and their uses
The trench coat is so much more than a piece of outerwear. The fabric and the
development has helped officers of the army stay dry and camouflaged. The classic khaki
and beige colours of the trench helped officers to stay as concealed as possible. There are
many other aspects of the coat that were developed specifically to assist soldiers at war.
• The shoulder straps were added to the coat in World War I so that soldiers could attach
items such as their epaulettes and their rank insignia. They would also provide padding
against the butt of a shotgun.
• D rings were added for the purpose of holding equipment such as map cases and swords.
• The large pockets were an essential, as they were used to hold military gear
• Ventilation flaps were added for expelling any unpleasant odours, as well as helping keep
the coats breathable.
• The length of the trench coat was well thought out too. There were made to be short
enough so that they wouldn’t trail too much in the mud and mire. They were also slightly
flared at the waist, to allow maximum movement.
• The back yoke of the coat had crosses, which allowed water and mud to slough off
• Originally, the trench coats came with a removable warm lining. This could be used as a
blanket.
• The collar buttons at the neck were designed so that gas masks could be tucked tightly in
to make them as efficient as possible.
• The cuff straps allowed binoculars to be secured when in use.

How the ‘Trench Coat’ has reappeared over the centuries up
until the 1990’s
• As the war ended, the coats’ popularity stayed intact: officers still wore
them, and they were used again in World War II.
• From here, the trench coat continued its
ascent into style iconography with the slick
gangsters, upstanding gentlemen, detectives,
and never-do-wells of ‘40s and ‘50s cinema.
• The trench coat became popular for women
after the war, too, into the 1960s and then
present day.
It was worn by Marilyn Monroe in her 1960 film
Let’s Make Love and Brigitte Bardot in Roger
Vadim’s Love on a Pillow from 1962. BOGART IN CASABLANCA wearing
a Burberry trench on his back.
The coat from that film is still
iconic and he only wore it in
two scenes.

• The minimalist creation was deconstructed and reconstructed by Jean –
Paul Gaultier. This deconstructed style returns this coming
Spring/Summer 2018 season, having sailed down the runways last
September as brands like Alexander Mc Queen, Balenciaga, and
Margiela all put their own spin on the garment.
• Throughout its life, the trench coat has seen everything from battles to
runways, bayonets to bloggers. It’s been worn up and down, by officers
and accountants, princes and artists, morphing from its signature
gabardine to fabrics like suede, patent leather, and even plastic as
fashion and time continue to move on. Despite our constant style
evolution, however, the trench coat remains a classic we’ll never stop
fighting for.

MAISON MARGIELA
SPRING/SUMMER 2018

TRENCH STYLE
Alexa Chung

Evolution of trench coats
• From wartime essential to a fashion accessory,
the evolution of trench coat has been quite
exiting.
• The coat received massive popularity after it
was worn by Hollywood celebrities in famous
movies (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• Homage was paid by
the celebrities during
the golden age of
Hollywood as its
massive use was there
from detectives to
gangsters and leading
men and women roles
(Thestar.com 2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• The basic colors for trench coats were khaki
and beige, however, after its adoption by
Hollywood artists the trench coats were
started being made into a wide range of colors
(Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• Along with a wide
range of colors,
designers also
experimented with
its style keeping the
current trend in
mind (Thestar.com
2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• In the years of 1990s,
the fashion industry
breathed new life into
trench by
experimenting with
different fabrics
inclusive of lace, satin,
python skins and so
on (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• The trench has come
a long from its classic
color and style,
from Humphrey
Bogart to Juardan
Dunn (Foreman
2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• Even though, several designers experimented with its
style, certain features of trench remained same like
wide lapels, belted waist, epaulettes and large
pockets (Thestar.com 2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• The weatherproof finish
along with lightweight
fabric also remained
signature style of trench
coats (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats
• After 2000s, the major change has been the
shorter style of the coat. Manufacturers
addressed the issue of the length of the coats
and started making the coats shorter
(Thestar.com 2018).

Modern trench coats
• The major feature
of modern trench
coats is that it is
designed in a way
that can be worn in
all seasons
(Foreman 2018).

References
• Foreman, K. (2018). The trench: A coat for all
seasons. [online] Bbc.com. Available at:
http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20131024-the-
trench-coat-for-all-seasons [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].
• Thestar.com (2018). Evolution of Burberry's iconic
trench coat - Fashion | The Star Online. [online]
Thestar.com.my. Available at:
https://www.thestar.com.my/lifestyle/women/fashi
on/2014/04/23/evolution-of-burberrys-iconic-
trench-coat/ [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].