Racism and Mental Health: A Dissertation on the UK Fashion Industry

This dissertation investigates the impact of racism and discrimination on the mental and physical health of individuals working within the UK fashion retail industry. It explores the systemic nature of racism within the fashion world, from beauty standards based on white European ideals to the underrepresentation of Black culture and the tokenism of ethnic ambiguity. The research identifies the reasons behind racism in the UK fashion industry, including poor working conditions, biased hiring practices, and a lack of inclusivity. It examines the profitable trends of cultural appropriation, the mental health effects of racism, and examples of brands that have demonstrated racist practices. The dissertation concludes by offering recommendations for mitigating and preventing racism within the fashion industry, such as supporting Black-owned businesses, hiring Black models and designers, and amplifying Black voices.

FASHION
DISSERTATION

Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION...........................................................................................................................3
LITERATURE REVIEW................................................................................................................6
Is the fashion industry racist?......................................................................................................6
Why is there lack of diversity on the catwalk and on front-page publications?.........................6
What are the profitable trends of cultural appropriation and inspiration?..................................7
What are the mental effects of racism?.......................................................................................7
What are the brands that have demonstrated racism?.................................................................8
Is there hope for change? ...........................................................................................................8
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ..................................................................................................10
DISCUSSION................................................................................................................................12
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS..........................................................................15
CONCLUSION.........................................................................................................................15
RECOMMENDATIONS..........................................................................................................15
REFERENCES..............................................................................................................................18
Books and Journals...................................................................................................................18
Online sources...........................................................................................................................19

INTRODUCTION
Background of the topic
The inhumane treatment of Brown and Black people globally is centuries systemic and
old. Recent videos have also showed that police are creating universal anger and outrage and it
has also showed that racism does not just exist in these clips any more (Krause and Li, 2020). It
has deeply entrenched every part of culture, involving the fashion industry, where progress is
quite slow (Hudson, 2016). Fashion has created itself in multiple ways that create white
supremacy, from the standards of parameters of style and beauty being dependent upon white
European standards, to the dismissal of of Black culture's contribution to aesthetics, to the
tokenism of ethnic ambiguity.
This is the industry that allows quite few people of color in decision making, leadership
and gate-keeping roles and its dragging responses to racial injustice have been highlighted in the
weeks since the killing of George Floyd. Fashion holds a unique place in the whole world
because it is great for shifting mindsets, creating new norms and excluding or including whole
groups of individuals from its vision of beauty (O’Connell, 2021). Fashion industry requires
more Brown and Black people at each and every level because this helps in getting multiple
perspectives from different viewpoint or culture. This ultimately assists in making whole fashion
industry more inclusive (Iqbal, 2017).
Racism is referred as an omnipresent broader social problem but the fashion industry is
damaged with unique structural issues that form it particularly unequipped to confront racism,
exclusivity and representation (Därth, 2020). In the existing investigation impact of racism on
mental and physical health of people is shown within fashion retail industry of the United
Kingdom. It also shows the reasons that encourage racism in the fashion industry along with
examples of brands that have supported racism while demonstrating their products.
Research aim, objectives and questions
Research Aim:
To identify the impact of racism discrimination on mental and physical health of people
within UK fashion retail industry.
Research Objectives:
 To identify the reasons of racism within UK fashion industry

 To examine the causes behind lack of diversity on the catwalk and on front-page
publications
 To determine the profitable trends of Cultural appropriation and inspiration for UK
fashion industry
 To evaluate the impact of racism discrimination on mental health of people within
fashion industry
 To discern the examples of brands that have supported racism while demonstrating their
products
 To identify the ways that UK fashion industry can use to mitigate or prevent racism
within fashion industry
Research Questions:
 Is the fashion industry racist?
 Why is there lack of diversity on the catwalk and on front-page publications?
 What are the profitable trends of cultural appropriation and inspiration?
 What are the mental effects of racism?
 What are the brands that have demonstrated racism?
 Is there hope for change?
Research rationale
The major purpose of conducting the existing dissertation is to showcase the level of
racism discrimination within fashion industry. I have selected topic discrimination in fashion
industry because there are many people related with this industry face discrimination on the basis
of their color. Racism within fashion industry treat Black and Brown people in an inhumane way
(Peterson, 2020). There are two vital objectives that are met with the help of two different
perspectives which are: personal and professional. In terms of personal perspective, I will get the
chance of increasing my knowledge about the fashion industry of the United Kingdom. This
dissertation will also assist me in knowing about the various methods of research to collect and
analyse information in a systematic manner. On the other hand, in terms of professional
perspective, I will learn about the ways through which racism in the fashion industry can be
prevented and mitigated. This will aid me in my professional career as I can be able to recruit
candidates from different culture so that diversity can be improved in the fashion companies and

firms. Therefore, this dissertation has great interest because it facilitates me in fulfilling
professional and personal objectives.

LITERATURE REVIEW
As per the viewpoint of Jha (2015), fashion industry is white institution that affects the
beauty standards of people on the basis of perception. The white people generally dominate the
entire industry but also engages in self-oppression. The industry is devised by fashion designers
and photographers that works together for creating unique vision using photography and clothes
which is interpreted as standard of beauty for viewers. Generally, fashion magazines and other
publishers publishes their content by endorsing white beauty. When black people are presented
in fashion it makes distinction (Newman, 2017). In fashion industry, black model challenge
versatility, beauty and aesthetics. Fashion creates an impact on the women's beauty aspirations
and perceptions. Fashion industry is mainly dominated by white people due to which black
people are mainly used as a tokens for the organisations so that they can show they aren't racist.
The reasons of racism within UK fashion industry are poor working conditions, racism in hiring
and promotions, lack of inclusivity and exploitation. Fashion industry generally do racism in
hiring and promotions as they mainly prefer white people as compare to black people. It is
important for the racism industry to have diverse team so that they can think innovatively, have
better equity and diversity policies, enjoy stronger sense of community and also practices more
environmentally sustainable practices.
As per the opinion of Lewis (2019), there is a lack of diversity on the catwalk and on
front page publications, Earlier trend was followed by fashion industry in order to increase the
image and reputation in market by profiling black women on runway and front page
publications. But now high profile of black women on runway is no passing trend for front page
publications and catwalk. In fashion industry there is lack of diversity related to catwalk and
front page publications due to which many people face discrimination based on their appearance
and beliefs. Diversity plays an important role in fashion industry as by having diverse clothing
and models with more sizes, people will think better for the organisation due to which they gain
strong market presence and high reputation (Makortoff, 2020). Thus, it is important for fashion
industry to diversify their front page publications and models for catwalks as they are facing
criticism for using models who are largely white, woefully young and waifish. Fashion industry
must focus on publishing white and black models on their front page publications which makes
them diversify and also shows equal treatment for both black and white people.

According to Robertson (2015), cultural appropriation is based on the idea that focuses
on various elements of minority or subculture which can be adopted into fashion. The few
examples of cultural appropriation is headdresses, dreadlocks and turbans. But these cultural
trends are being criticised and publicized due to use of technology and social media when these
trends has adopted by different cultures (Peoples Wagner, 2018). Fashion industry generally
work seamlessly by sharing all cultures without taking offence to anyone and also adopt foreign
culture in comparison to their own culture. Cultural appropriation is a process of celebrating the
cultural exchange when it is done respectfully and tastefully (Padula, 2016). The profitable
trends of cultural appropriation is adopting different cultures of the country in order to gain
popularity and social status. Even when the culturally embedded trends begin at luxury brands,
street levels and fashion houses it will be still accepted globally. For example, one of the
recognised fashion brand Burberry can use turban cultural appropriation by featuring models
wearing turbans as it attracts Sikh community from all over world. Thus, it is important for
fashion industry to focus on offering creative and innovative products to its customer. The trends
of inspiration are oversized hats, shell jewellery, bamboo bags and embellished belts.
As per the viewpoint of Sobande (2019), fashion industry is mainly characterized by
various forms of racial discrimination. Racial discrimination generally occurs when industry
discriminate the people on the basis of racial, skin colour and ethnic origin. The people with
different colors generally face racism which creates an impact on their mental health. In fashion
industry, racism is a mental health issue which causes trauma. The trauma is directly linked to
mental illness due to which people with different color experiences serious mental health
conditions (Sampson, 2020). In fashion industry, people of color experience faces trauma due to
avoidance, mass incarceration of their peers, racial profiling, etc. There is a huge impact of
racism discrimination on mental health of people within fashion industry as when they face
avoidance it reduces their morale and motivation due to which they feel stress and get depressed.
Not only black people sometimes white people also faces racism (Kaiser and Green, 2021).
There are different types of racism which creates an impact on individual in fashion industry
such as structural racism, interpersonal racism, institutional racism, internalized racism,
oppression and racial trauma (Dyer, 1997).
As per the opinion of Braham (2017), there are various brands that have demonstrated
their products showing racism such as H&M, Snapchat, Audi and Heineken's. These brands have

demonstrate their products by supporting racism which hurts the sentiments and emotions of
many people. In order to market its light beer, Heineken uses tagline 'sometimes, lighter is
better'. The tagline is inoffensive but the ad shows that the bartender sliding a beer pas three
black people to a lighter skinned women. One of the luxury brand Prada also supports the racism
by surfacing the image of Manhattan store front with merchandise depicting monkey like figures
with large red lips and black faces. Audi also supports racism by featuring the scene form
Chinese wedding in which mother in law walking to altar for checking out her soon to be
daughter in law (Lovell, 2021). The mother in law generally pinch her lips, examine her teeth
and tongue, pull her ears and the gives approval with a tagline 'an important decision must be
made carefully'. H&M is a clothing retailer in UK market, the brand has also supported racism
by using black child to advertise hoodie with the slogan “coolest monkey in the jungle”.
According to Ferreira and Medeiros (2016), there are various ways through which
fashion industry can mitigate or prevent racism. By mitigating the racism, fashion industry can
attain positive feedbacks and also enhance their growth in market. It is important for the fashion
industry to focus on supporting black people so that they feel valued and changed in industry. By
supporting black owned fashion and beauty brands, company can send message of support and
also call for change. It is being analysed that black men and women are more attractive as
compare to white people (Sanchez, 2020). Fashion industry must focus on adopting more
companies that are owned by black people. They must also focus on hiring black models so that
they can show their talent and flawlessly do catwalk in runway. In UK, fashion industry must
also hire black designers and artists as it helps in diversifying the team which leads to more
creative and innovative ideas. They must amplify black voices so that they feel engaged in
workplace and give their best performance in brining new ideas and thoughts. Fashion industry is
also responsible for providing platforms to black voices so that they can create awareness and
also build their strong image in market. They can focus on supporting black influencers so that
they can tap into new communities and subgroups.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
It is the vital section that gives certain methods for the accumulation, evaluation and
analysis of information in a proper manner. Saunders research onion framework is considered by
researcher so that information can be accumulated as well as evaluated. Therefore, the chapter of
research methodology has great significance because it aids in meeting the pre-determined aim
and objectives.
The Research philosophy is categorised in two main forms which are: positivism and
interpretivism philosophy. Researcher has chosen interpretivism philosophy so that theoretical
piece of information can be evaluated and analysed (Silverman, 2020). The major benefit of
interpretivism philosophy is that relevancy of non-numerical piece of information.
The research approach is divided in two important forms that are: inductive and
deductive approach. Researcher has chosen inductive approach so that non-numerical piece of
information can be analysed, evaluated and measured (Aspers and Corte, 2019). The main
benefit of inductive approach is that it helps in analysing information collected through selected
case study.
The research method provides several strategies that include: action research, case study,
survey, grounded theory, systematic literature review etc. Researcher has chosen case study and
systematic literature review as research strategy. Case study helps in identifying the actual
experience of the company in relation the topic. The present investigation highlights the various
examples by considering different case studies so that relevant and authentic information can be
accumulated (Camic, 2021). On the other hand, systematic literature review is also used by
investigator for the accumulation of second-hand data from the secondary sources such as
journals, newspapers, publications, articles, conducted interviews & surveys and many more.
The choice gives two important kinds that are: qualitative and quantitative research
choice. Investigator has chosen qualitative research choice for assembling theoretical and text
kind of information for meeting defined aim and objectives (Daniel, 2019). The main benefit of
qualitative research choice is that it includes accumulation and analysis of non numerical
information for understanding opinions, views and concepts of different authors in relation to the
topic.
It is the method of research which gives two important forms that are: primary and
secondary data collection. Researcher has chosen secondary data collection method so that

detailed information can be accumulated and collected. The main benefit of secondary data
collection method is that it saves expenses as well as efforts. This facilitates in identifying the
gaps and deficiencies in the existing information and this also helps in additional data requires to
be assembled (Gioia, 2021). The several secondary sources used in the investigation are: books,
articles, newspapers, journals, publications and many more. These secondary sources have
helped researcher to assemble information in such a manner that all questions can be addressed
systematically.
It is the research method that allows investigator to analyse and evaluate information
(Valtakoski, 2019). The existing dissertation is based upon secondary and qualitative piece of
information so researcher has used thematic analysis. The main benefit of thematic analysis is
that it carries out relevancy of assembled theoretical data.

DISCUSSION
As per the accumulated data in the section of literature review it is evaluated that fashion
industry has given more importance to white people in comparison of Black people. Fashion
industry has made itself in such a manner that it has created system of white supremacy (Lewis,
2019). This white system depicts that white standards are seen as style and beauty for an
individual. Black Models, Black designers and decision makers in the fashion industry do not get
opportunity of showing their talent. They are discriminated in the organisation in such a way that
they fail to demonstrate their work. Their work is misguided by the people because they are
Black. It has been determined that people of Black color do not get chance of performing
leadership roles because they are not trusted by the higher authorities of the Fashion industry.
Fashion magazines and companies publish content by including white beauty rather than giving
same importance to Black beauty (Soh, 2018). Fashion industry has perception that their
products get more attention from customers when they include White models for displaying and
demonstrating their products. The major reasons of racism within fashion industry of the United
Kingdom are giving importance to white while recruiting and hiring, poor working conditions,
over-exploitation of Black employees & designers, lack of inclusiveness and many more. The
people working in the fashion industry has mind-set that people are more attracted towards
White models and employees.
As per the information gathered through literature review it is analysed that fashion
industry has lack of diversity especially on the catwalk and on front page publications. In past
times, it is determined that fashion industry had followed profiling black woman on runway and
front page publications (McInnis and Medvedev, 2021). But by passing time, profiling black
women on runway is no more a trend. Fashion industry has lack of diversity on the catwalk and
front page publications because there is supremacy of white people in comparison of Black
people. Diversity holds great importance in the fashion industry because it open more
opportunities by including every size people, every color people etc. Front page publications are
generally published by white models because it is believed that people get more attracted
towards publications when they see White beauty rather than Black beauty. Only 6% Black
models make up to runway shows because it fashion companies think that Black models are not
appropriate for showcasing their stuff. The main reason or excuse given by fashion companies
for not including black models in the catwalks or front-page publications is that black people are

unable to sell (Stewart, 2010). It is determined that when white upper class women see the dress
of their dreams worn by black models in catwalk then they deter from buying it. The Black
industry also supports that including Black face on the front page of publications will stop people
from buying that particular product.
As per the information gained through books and journals in the literature review, it is
discussed that fashion industry gives great importance to including people from different culture
so that they can gain popularity as well as celebrate cultural exchange (Näslund, 2020). Burberry
is the fashion brand that uses turban cultural appropriation in which they feature models wearing
turban to attract Sikh community.
From the above secondary data, it is being discussed that fashion industry is largely
categorised by racial discrimination. Racial discrimination occurs when people is being judged
according to their caste, race, skin, ethnic etc. This judgement affects the mental health of an
individual in great manner (Waterhouse, 2019). The major mental health issue which an
individual face due to racial discrimination is trauma (Costa, 2021). The major problem of
trauma in people is due to colour discrimination which creates a situation of mental illness in
human mind. From the above literature review it is also discussed that trauma in human occur
when they are being avoided, mass incarceration, racial profiling and many more. This impact a
lot as it reduces morale and motivation of an individual due to which they feel stress and
depressed.
With the information assembled in the section of literature review, it is analysed that
companies like Gucci, Tommy Hilfiger, Burberry etc. have supported racism while
demonstrating their products. It has created outrage among Black people and created difficult
situations for company to continue their operations (Moon, 2020).
It is being identified from the above information that there are several ways through
which fashion industry can mitigate the problems of racism. They must focus on supporting
black owned fashion and beauty products and also attract people with different racialism.
Fashion industry in UK must focus on including more number of brands and companies that are
owned by black people (Habermann, 2021). They must also focus on hiring black designers and
artists so that they can bring new and creative ideas for improving the performance of fashion
industry in UK market. Fashion industry also amplifies black voices so that they can create
awareness among people regarding the racism (Clark and et. al., 2021).