The Influence of Virgil Abloh and Streetwear on the Fashion Industry

This report examines the significant impact of streetwear on the fashion industry, with a specific focus on the influence of Virgil Abloh. It traces the evolution of streetwear from its roots in California skateboarding, Japanese street fashion, and hip hop culture to its integration with luxury brands. The report delves into Abloh's background, his work with Kanye West at Fendi, the founding of his brand Off-White, and his subsequent role as artistic director at Louis Vuitton. It analyzes how Abloh's vision, which blends hip hop culture with high fashion, has reshaped the industry and how luxury brands are evolving to meet the demands of a new generation of consumers. The report also highlights the historical context of hip hop fashion, including its origins in New York City and its global spread, as well as the evolution of street wear from its early days to high-end fashion. Furthermore, it investigates the impact of hip hop culture on fashion, including the rise of streetwear brands and the influence of key figures like Abloh, and the challenges and criticisms faced by hip hop culture within the fashion industry. The report concludes by acknowledging Abloh's pioneering role as a Black creative director in a major luxury fashion house and his lasting impact on the industry.

VIRGIL ABLOH

SYNOPSIS
Street wear style of fashion is a mixture of California skateboarding, Japanese Street
fashion, hip hop and modern culture. Normally the casual and comfortable jeans or t-shirt
with sneakers was generally accepted in Los Angeles by the late 1970’s and 1980’s. This
research considers the impact of street wear on the fashion industry and how luxury brands
are evolving with them. The research looks specifically at Virgil Abloh who is from the
generation of young designer who made a name for themselves within hip hop’s fashion
industry and now he is the head of a luxury brand named Louis Vuitton. In 2013 he founded
his own fashion house name Off-White, in Milan-based where he was working as chief
executive officer (CEO). With Kanye West who is rapper Virgil Abloh did his internship at
Fendi. Then Virgil Abloh was named as one among 100 most influential people in world in
2018. So in eliminating these differences Hip Hop fashion and style raised as sound, brave
and completely new form of art while many of the critics calling it as violent, vulgar,
misogynistic, materialistic, racist and homophobic. In the end it could be concluded that if
anyone is celebrating diversity within fashion industry then this could be regarded to as very
much early as there are many gems who are about to come forward. As it is also noted out
from this whole report that only 3 black men making it to as creative directors in such big
fashion house and industry is sign of achievement.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I am grateful to all of those with whom I have had the pleasure to work during the
project related to Virgil Abloh and other related project. Each of the members of my
Dissertation Committee has provided me extensive personal and professional guidance and
taught me a great deal about both scientific research and life in general. Nobody has been
more important to me in the pursuit of this project than the members of my family. I would
like to thank my parents, whose love and guidance are with me in whatever I pursue. They
are the ultimate role models. As my teacher and mentor, he has taught me more than I could
ever give him credit for here. He has shown me, by his example, what a good scientist (and
person) should be.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................................................5
1.1 Background of research...................................................................................................5
1.2 History hip hop culture into fashion................................................................................6
1.3 Virgil Abloh.....................................................................................................................7
CHAPTER 1..............................................................................................................................8
Hip pop culture.......................................................................................................................8
Impact of hip pop culture into fashion...................................................................................9
CHAPTER 2............................................................................................................................13
Street wears..........................................................................................................................13
Street wears evolving into high ends fashion.......................................................................13
CHAPTER 3............................................................................................................................17
Virgil Abloh.........................................................................................................................17
Virgil Abloh vision for street wear......................................................................................18
CONCLUSION........................................................................................................................22
REFERENCES.........................................................................................................................23

INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of research
Street wear style of fashion is a mixture of California stakeboarding, Japanese Street
fashion, hip hop and modern culture. Normally the casual and comfortable jeans or t-shirt
with sneakers was generally accepted in Los Angeles by the late 1970’s and 1980’s (What is
street wear fashion, 2018). There is a number of street wear fashion brands working and
currently operating at global level including Ocean Pacific, Off Shore and Life’s a Beach.
While on other hand luxury brands mean those brands in clothing which symbolise class,
standard and elite which is affiliated with luxury, high price and quality (Bain, 2018).
Example of one of most luxury brands in clothing is those of Tommy Hilfiger, Louis Vuitton
and Burberry.
Luxurious fashion and clothing brands are now collaborating with other street wear
labels like that of Vetements and Supreme. These is mainly done by the luxury brand as they
want something new and cool in their fashion, which will attract customers. During the
Autumn and Winter collection of 2017 (AW2017), Louis Vuitton introduced six pop up
shops that for a limited time only at which they announced a street wear label. All after this
various other brands like that Tommy Hilfiger, Supreme and Vetements also introduced street
wear collection by the partnership with street wear fashion houses. Virgil Abloh, who is
regarded to as the most famous fashion designer in the category of street wear collection,
joined as CEO at Louis Vuitton which is one of the luxurious fashion brand.
This research considers the impact of street wear on the fashion industry and how
luxury brands are evolving with them. The research looks specifically at Virgil Abloh who is
from the generation of young designer who made a name for themselves within hip hop’s
fashion industry and now he is the head of a luxury brand named Louis Vuitton (About Virgil
Abloh, 2018). He is changing the collection from cool and easy to wear street fashion that a
new generation of consumers want. The research paper is also covering impact of Virgil on
fashion industry as he is the first African American to reach such great post. He is also
inspiration for youth of his region and impacting the high end fashion industry with his hip
hop cultural.
Aim
To analysis the impact of street wears in respect to Virgil Abloh within the fashion
industry especially on luxury brands.
Objective

 To analysis the impact of hip pop culture into fashion
 To investigate street wears evolving into high end fashion
 To discuss Virgil Abloh’s vision for street wear
Rationale
When Virgil Abloh became artistic director of Louis Vuitton it marked as major step
into the fashion industry, as he was the first black person to be a part of such a large luxury
brand in its 164 year history. He is considered to as prince of hip hop design who is ascended
onto throne of major French fashion label as director of Louis Vuitton men’s wear collection.
Abloh is the first black man making debut of his career he is also first man at this position
who is not belonging to New York City but is from Illinois. So this research is mostly based
on development of Virgil Abloh the modern vision of luxurious brands entering into fashion
industry. It is very important to find out the impact of hip pop culture into fashion industry as
the street wear is evolving into high end fashion. The impact and role in this increase in trend
and demand of street wear of Virgil Abloh is very important to study so that future of fashion
industry could be analysed.
Research question
1. What is the impact of hip pop culture into fashion?
2. How street wear evolved into high ends fashion?
3. What is Virgil Abloh vision for street wear?
1.2 History hip hop culture into fashion
Hip hop fashion is mainly complementing all attitudes, expression and style of
wearing clothes. This type of fashion is prominently changing since the time of its invention
in late 1970’s and 1980’s and this is now one of the most popular type of fashion all across
world and especially among people. This is also called to as big fashion which is having very
different style of wearing cloths it originate in New York City, Africa and Latin America.
Thereafter, it has grown to later parts of world including like that of Atlanta, San Francisco,
Chicago, Houston and Virginia (Sulima, 2018). In the year 1960 when Black Arts Movement
started it showed the cultural dress within the mixture of modern fashion and West African
tradition clothing in creating African- American traditional style. In early 1990’s this type of
fashion evolved gradually after 1980 when people began to get affected by traditional
African-American culture or dressing style. This includes larger pants, brighter colour and
head cap or other accessories. In 1989, Cross Colour was recognized as a first street wear
brand with the tagline of Clothes without prejudice. Cross Colour was mainly targeting the

black youth of Africa and other nations as they were the ones who faced prejudice based on
their colour and minority in America. Celebrities like Will Smith, Muhammad Ali and TLC
were known for wearing this brand. But eventually as the brand emerged as one of the most
popular street fashion wear in world it is now seeking their aim as equality, empowerment
and unity.
After the 1990 lot of hip hop artist began to start their own labelled brands for their
individual fashion lines. Some of the most prominent of them are like that of Eminem’s
Shady Limited, Wu-Tang Clan’s Wu-Wear, 50 Cent started G-Unit Clothing and Jay-Z’s
Rocawear. It was thought that the upcoming generation would have a preference for hip hop
fashion, including that of skinny jeans and cap or accessories with it.
1.3 Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh is an American fashion designer, music producer and DJ currently
working as director of Louis Vuitton’s men collection since March 2018. He was born on
30th September 1980 in Illinois, USA in house of Ghanaian immigrant parents. His mother
was dress maker, and it is from her that he developed his passion for fashion and was inspired
to become designer. Virgil Abloh graduated from the University of Wisconsin in year 2002
with degree of Bachelor of Science in Civil engineering and then Master’s at Illinois Institute
of Technology in Architecture in 2006 (A Brief History of Virgil Abloh’s Meteoric Rise,
2018).
In 2013 he founded his own fashion house name Off-White, in Milan-based where he
was working as chief executive officer (CEO). With Kanye West who is rapper Virgil Abloh
did his internship at Fendi. Then Virgil Abloh was named as one among 100 most influential
people in world in 2018. After he became artistic director of Louis Vuitton he was the 1st
African to lead such huge brand in menswear (Milnes, 2018). In 2011 Virgil Abloh received
Grammy Awards for best recording package, then in 2017 by British Fashion Awards and
then named among 100 most influential designers in 2018. Virgil Abloh was named as prince
of pop design as he took over the major French fashion house as he made his mark as street
wear designer.

CHAPTER 1
Hip pop culture
According to Holyst, (2018) Hip hop or Hip pop culture is that type which emerged in
late 1970’s and mid of 1980’s with the impact of sportswear and fashion brand like that of
Adidas and Le Coq Sportif. Many of the hip hop dance and music stars were wearing cloths
like that of brightly colour like that of tracksuits and bomber jackets made of leather. Other
than cloths there was also hair style which were put into fashion like that of Jheri Curl in
early 1980’s and hi-top fade in 1990’s by Will Smith. There was also various types of
accessories that included within this trend of hip hop fashion like eyeglasses, heavy jewellery
like that of gold chains and neck piece bucket hats, name belts multiple rings. This culture
was highly having the impact of celebrities like that of rappers, musicians, dancers and
singers. As included by Bosek, (2018) they created and popularised this hip hop culture more
in world who were regarded to as trend setter. Hip hop culture is most widely adopt culture in
all countries and parts of world which help in transforming traditional to modern day cool
communities.
Figure 1: Men wearing hip hop style cloths with chain and caps.
[Source: Bosek, 2018]
This type of style or culture is mainly originated among youth of African American
and Latin American then reached out to rest parts of world including America, Africa, Asia
and Australia, hip hop fashion is today complementing with each style and expression and

attitude of person carrying that. It is also emerging as carrying out significant amount of
changes within fashion industry in all parts of world and among all ethnic group.
Apart from these increasing trends of this type of fashion there is some strong
criticism that surrounds the Hip Hop culture around the world. According to view of Pough,
(2015) many fans are disappointed by the growing number of promotion campaigns that are
organised by the leading and expensive Hip Hop brands into magazines (Street-wear gets a
luxe makeover, 2018). In one of the letter to editor of Source magazine it was written that
company must be making their efforts in showing some less expensive brands as well so
youth will not try to steal or rob them from stores. There are many incidents of robbery from
many big artists of hip hop in late 1990’s like $300000 of jewellery was robbed by Prodigy,
car from Queen Latifah and Rolex watch by Guru of Gang Starr as explained by Viktoriia,
(2018).
As per Rubinstein, (2018) hip hop is very much influenced by race and ethnicity of
people especially those belonging to Africa and Latin American region. Hip hop is emerged
to as reaction of gang culture and violence of South Bronx in 1970’s as there the people were
daily leading their life with racism, poverty, violence, neglect and crime as well. This type of
fashion and style was always matter of discussion based on topic like that of race,
transformation of racial and racial injustices as well. As it is involved that in this current
world every one want become cool which is very easy but remaining cool is important as in
include being dynamic and constantly changing. It is also highly influential with the role and
involvement of Black people in this fashion industry. As it is experienced that many
Americans termed to as white people also idolising the trends which are adopted or innovated
by Black culture and they are also having desire to be part of African American. This is
always included by Thompson, (2013) to as negative impact of African American on the
fashion industry all across the world
Impact of hip pop culture into fashion
Within the time frame of past 3 decades Hip Hop culture is been the fastest movement
that is reaching and spreading to several parts of world as said by Gloe, (2016). This
movement begun in 1970’s when South Bronx was under race riots and government
neglecting the social service programs this made the international symbol of urban despair.
During these riots there were many residents of this area living in very inhuman conditions
like they were lacking very basic necessities of water electricity. Many buildings and middle
class occupants were under mass evacuation which brought squatters and addicts within the

city. These riots were very much extensive as about 40% of the lands or buildings during the
time of 1970-1980 were abandoned.
So in eliminating these differences Hip Hop fashion and style raised as sound, brave
and completely new form of art while many of the critics calling it as violent, vulgar,
misogynistic, materialistic, racist and homophobic. As it was also included with the view
point of Washington, (2018) that hip hop fashion and music always played role in openly
speaking about black urban poverty. In year 1982 it was witnessed that fashion designer
Dapper Dan opened boutique store at 125 New York street which was selling cloths with fake
logos on them from the famous luxury house fashion brand like that of Gucci and Louis
Vuitton. When this news was spread all across American these fashion brands sued Dapper
Dan and shut down the store.
In year 1990 Tommy Hilfiger was one of the major brand for increasing the influence
of street culture. In the present time it is included that Hip Hop is one of largest cultural
exports and luxury industry of America with having major celebrities endorsing for major
fashion brands. So it is noted by Bradley, (2017) that hip hop and street wear culture is
slowly taking over and conquering the high fashion. The year 2017 was celebrated to as 44th
year of emergence of hip hop culture which includes the blend of art, finesse and style. There
are many factors which contributed within the growth of popularity of hip hop but then also
there are very few which are noticeable in the world of fashion.
According to Kruse, (2016) definition of hip hop it is highly included that it is that
style which reflects regional preference, personal narrative and mobility which is also seen in
current look. With the involvement of many celebrities and singers or rappers like that of Jay
Z, Russell Simmons and Sean Combs in way of hip hop fashion industry also have their
special role. This is slowly becoming more transcultural expression as brands are selling their
products and other than this the rappers and singers are also increasing popularity within
industry as well. This will be moreover reflecting form of relaxed fashion of street life
connected with mass shows like that of MTV videos. There are some of the very common
and necessary things to wear in this type of culture like that of mixed match dresses,
oversized cloths, sportswear items and high end cloths as well.

Figure 2: Impact of hip hop fashion on women
[Source: Petchauer, 2015]
As per the view of Petchauer, (2015) there is also significant influence of ladies or
women within this fashion industry. The bold and vibrant colours of Salt N Pepa were there
on forefront which was both mix and match of song and their sense of style. These women
fashion with Hip Hop industry included that of body suits, bamboo earrings, colourful ball
jackets and hair styles. In the latest sense the New York Fashion Week of 2017 by Marc
Jacob’s was one of the great inspiration from the hip hop culture in somewhat classic way.
According to view point of Maddock and Andrew, (2018) many of the luxurious brands are
now attempting into culture diversity which shows that fashion is very extremely relying only
on hip hop nowadays. There are many luxurious brands then also which are recognising very
importance of hip hop culture with being and looking smart and appreciating as well. As all
these big fashion brands have recognised the very importance of hip hop culture that it
matters very much even more than it was in past.

Figure 3: Model in New York Fashion Week of 2017 by Marc Jacob’s
[Source: Maddock and Andrew, 2018]
As explained by Macedo, (2015) this as reason behind Virgil Abloh is creating most
of this videos and album cover for Lil Uzi Vert who is the American rapper and also coming
into partnership with Nike for Off White. This is both a luxury and street wear brand of Italy
but was founded by American creative designer and DJ Virgil Abloh in year 2012. Off White
is that brand which specialise into high end street wear with luxurious clothing section for
both men and women. Off White is also having about 24 stores all over the world with selling
products like that of clothing, shoes, accessories and furniture as well.
As it could be included by Hietanen, Sihvonen and Tikkanen, (2018) that there was
very much noticed that the senior level executives of famous fashion brands leave their
position after any sort of failure. Like it was the case into DXNY which is one of the most
luxurious brands the creative Director and Brand Chief Executive left the company within
less than 2 years. According to Van de Peer, (2014) this is very much rare that 3 of the top
executive of leading fashion house are leaving. While this happened 2 times in the history of
the contemporary fashion as in 2004 at the time when Tom Ford left Gucci and then in 2014
designer Frida Giannini was dismissed by Gucci.