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1 Team #1 - Corporate Rachel Grace Fritz From Sweatshops to Sustainability: The Transformation of Nike, Inc EAES 760: Organizational Environmental Management Monday, October 29, 2018
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2 I.Introduction The case study of Nike, Inc is critical to understand the serious and major transformation a corporation underwent to sustainability and a circular economy, focusing on restoring waste to be put back into the life cycle, from the concerns of their consumers. Nike was built on the business model of finding the lowest cost of labor possible that led to child labor and exploitation to being #16 on Fortune’s Most Admired Companies list, first in Apparel with a commitment to improving environmental impact. This includes providing transparency and ensuring decent working conditions in its supply chain, Nike, Inc has undoubtedly changed the public’s perception of their brand. They have become a sustainability leader in corporate business and it is vital to analyze this case in the hopes of understanding the importance of transformation to sustainability. Nike, Inc was selected because they had accusations of child labor that led to protests against the company and today they are a sustainability leader in innovation, design, and best brand for the environment. They are an industry leader in apparel and sports brand, surpassing its competitor Adidas and ESPN in sales at a value of $29.6 billion (PledgeSports, 2017). This is important as many companies believe they can not incorporate sustainability or a circular economy because it is complicated to implement through the supply chain because they are so large. Research questions include how the corporation went from denying the responsibility of child labor to accepting it and how they are moving forward. This is important to analyze as other corporations can look towards this case study to understand the importance of the consumers’ perspective of a brand and the importance of transparency. To include, many fashion brands do not believe sustainability can promote their business and this study aims to show that sustainability is vital for a business to thrive. This report will detail the many ways they are
3 going to achieve sustainability within the company including waste reduction, water conservation, energy savings, renewable energy, and transparency. Different key aspects in their innovation that progressed new technologies for sustainability and how other brands could also benefit from their innovations and processes. This case study aims to prove that a large corporation can transform their business model to sustainability and create a circular economy from their previous traditional models. This modification is especially important in the apparel industry because they are a part of the product manufacturing and dye industry, the most polluting industries (Sen Nag, 2018). The references within the case study of Nike, Inc was taken from online resources including reports, press releases, and news articles from websites. Each statistic’s reference was analyzed to confirm its authenticity to ensure there is no possibility of false claims. This is especially important in the case of Nike, Inc because of its past of denying responsibility due to the pretense of it being a false claim. II.Analysis The ability for Nike, Inc to grow so rapidly during the 1970s was by outsourcing their labor overseas in countries with the lowest wages and policies banned the formation of labor unions while other US footwear companies still produced in America (Baker, 2016). The exploitation of their factory workers included sweatshops that had child labor with abysmal working and living conditions, verbal and physical abuse, forced overtime, and toxic emissions that harmed human and environmental health. If workers tried to demand additional rights or benefits, Nike would close the location and move the factory elsewhere to operate at the lowest cost possible (Wilsey, Lichtig). It was not until the 1990s when Nike was criticized in the media
4 and by the community for selling apparel that was produced in sweatshops. During this time, Life Magazine published an article with a child stitching together a ball with the Nike logo on the front of the magazine to discuss the issues surrounding the corporation during this time. They attempted to spread awareness of the living conditions of these industries as it was a relatively new claim during this decade. In addition to the magazine, a campaign called ‘TeamSweat’ led by Jim Keady, who denied a multimillion-dollar endorsement deal to spread awareness of the mistreatment of workers in Indonesia and created a video about the experience of living with the workers called “Behind the Swoosh.” Nike’s CEO at the time, Phil Knight, and representatives denied all claims and did not take responsibility for their malpractice until it was a global boycott campaign towards the world’s best selling brand at the time (Timmus, 2013). After the release of the video in 1998 and pressure from other executives in the corporation, Phil Knight finally decided on publicly committing to changing the company’s practices as he believed the brand had become synonymous with slave wages (Bain, 2017). Phil Knight committed deeply enough to vow at Washington to root out child labor within his corporation (Banjo, 2014). In an interview in 2001 with Nike’s director of compliance at the time, Todd McKean, he stated that their initial attitude was that they do not own the factories so they can not control what goes on (Heckel, 2001). Later in 1998, Nike took an initial step to formally committing to sustainability by releasing the first Corporate Environmental Policy (CSRwire, 2001). In 1999, Nike created a code of conduct to manage its suppliers to ensure they are following strict regulations and rules to ensure no malpractice. In addition, they conducted more than 600 factory audits over the next five years to assure the code of conducts were being demonstrated correctly (Miller, 2014) Nike, Inc first demonstrated transparency by publishing a complete list of its contracted factories and releasing the first version of a Corporate Social
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5 Responsibility (CSR) report in 2001, the first in the sportswear industry to do so and the corporation continue the publications today (Birch, 2012). In their first CSR report, they detailed their pay scales and working condition in their factories that many people of the community were questioning. It also discussed the accusations and admitted fault in which they were working towards fixing, vital to ensure consumers can trust them (Newell, 2015). Today, The Global Exchange has stated that Nike has done more than any other corporation in the shoe-and-clothing industry to make sure workers are treated fairly (Beaverton, 2018). In addition, there are many different ways Nike is using innovation to promote sustainability and a circular economy include: Waste Reduction Nike utilizes a circular economy, or “cradle to cradle” cycle instead of a traditional economy, everything is reused and never wasted. With innovations in a sustainable leather called FlyKnit, Nike uses the most recycled polyester than any other sportswear brand. In addition, 75% of all shoes and apparel from Nike contain at least some recycled material (Nike, Inc, 2018). Globally, Nike has diverted up to five billion plastic bottles from landfills since 2012 by their innovations in their football kits made with recycled plastic (Nike, Inc, 2018). Around the world, there are over ten thousand athletic surfaces from Nike’s surplus in manufacturing materials such as rubber, foam, fiber, leather and textile blends (Nike, Inc, 2017). Energy Savings With partnerships with wind companies, Nike is able to set a goal of sourcing 100% renewable energy to their owned and operated facilities in North America by next year. This proposed plan is the energy equivalence of powering about four-hundred thousand average
6 American homes. Hannah Jones, Chief Sustainability Officer and VP of the Innovation Accelerator for Nike. “Investing in renewable energy is good for athletes, the planet and for business” (Nike, Inc, 2018). Conservation of Water Nike has incorporated a carbon-based dyeing process that dyes garments without using water or chemicals called Nike ColorDry by partnering with a Dutch startup, DyeCoo Textiles. Compared to traditional methods of dyeing, it reduces dying time by forty percent, energy use by around sixty percent, and the factory’s footprint by twenty-five percent (Korosec, 2013). Previously, Nike’s contracted textile plants were using and wasting about three billion gallons of water a year, 325 million gallons at Nike alone (Newell, 2015). Transparency Nike demonstrates transparency by publishing CSR reports each year with contracted suppliers and responding to crises fast and effectively. After the deadly fire at Dhaka garment company that killed 112 factory workers, Nike decided to investigate their own suppliers in Bangladesh. Vice president of global sourcing and manufacturing and the vice president of sustainable manufacturing and sourcing set out to the country to speak with managers of the facility, people in the neighborhood, and the factory workers. They decided after their interaction and what had been discovered that it was best to cut ties with one supplier due to their lack of compliance with the code of conduct. III.Conclusions Nike, Inc has transformed its public image by incorporating sustainability into their business model and ultimately following what consumers requested. Today, more corporations
7 are looking towards progressing sustainability as it reduces business costs and increases profits. However, the issue of sustainability in corporations is a deeper situation dealing with many different factors that could prevent this. To solve this, it is best to look at one of the largest corporations in the fashion industry that was able to change their entire supply chain to be environmentally-focused so other corporations in the industry could initiate it into their business model, Nike, Inc. It is strictly essential for corporations to have sustainability leaders to take initiative within the company and be the face of change, such as Elon Musk at Tesla. The case study of Nike, Inc shows the lack of representation at the beginning by Phil Knight, the CEO and this frustrated consumers and even his own executives. If a corporation wants to transform, it must have sustainability leaders in the company to represent the brand to prevent consumers from thinking that the brand is associated with bad press. If a corporation is looking towards a sustainable supply chain, it is best to look towards the transformation of Nike, Inc for aid in the process. First, they admitted their wrongs and promised to do right and published their yearly CSR, vital to transparency for consumers. They analyzed their issues and decided their first endeavors would be to solve issues in their social pillar in sustainable sourcing in manufacturing. This is acrucialstep as it is a large risk to have child labor as this could lead to bad public relations, or ‘PR’, that was experienced by Nike. Audits of manufacturers in foreign countries will show to the public that you are overlooking operations closely even though the manufacturer is far away. If the corporation has solid ties to their suppliers with a strict code of conduct for manufacturers in their countries, these corporations could discover new innovative ways to progress their sustainability for long-term economic success. Partnering up with startups such as
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8 the contract between DyeCoo and Nike or the wind companies and Nike reap ultimate benefits. Since sustainability is such a new field of research, most new innovations are startups from young entrepreneurs and engineers and corporations could see the best success in this area for innovation. Partnering with a company is the best decision because the corporation would not have to make their own new innovative way and can outsource their project. Today, Nike is a favorite brand by millennials in part because of the comprehensive commitment to sustainability and transparency across their supply chain (Doshi, 2018). The public image of corporations has definitely changed over the last three decades as consumers are holding them more responsible for their actions on humans and the environment. Sustainability has become a forefront of a business and this case study served as an example of the possible backlash that can happen if a corporation denies of progressing their sustainability and the paramount modification that can be achieved when a corporation advances towards sustainable development.
9 IV:References Bain, M. (2017, August 31). Nike is facing a new wave of anti-sweatshop protests. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://qz.com/1042298/nike-is-facing-a-new-wave-of-anti- sweatshop-protests/ Beaverton. (2018, May 21). Labor Group: Nike Not Living up to Promises. Retrieved October 29, 2018, from https://abcnews.go.com/Business/story?id=88176&page=1 Birch, S. (2012, July 06). How activism forced Nike to change its ethical game | Simon Birch. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.theguardian.com/environment/green- living-blog/2012/jul/06/activism-nike CSRWire. (2001, October 15). Nike Releases First Corporate Responsibility Report. Retrieved fromhttp://www.csrwire.com/press_releases/24905-Nike-Releases-First-Corporate- Responsibility-Report Doshi, S. (2018, June 27). Transform Your Company Into A Leading Sustainable Business. Retrieved October 29, 2018, from https://www.forbes.com/sites/yec/2018/06/26/transform-your-company-into-a-leading- sustainable-business/#58d1fe795da2 Heckel, J. (2001, November 29). Nike, Adidas Officials Discuss Sweatshop Issues at University of Illinois. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1- 80410049.html Korosec, K. (2013, December 03). Nike's Waterless Dye Factory Cuts Energy Use 60%. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.environmentalleader.com/2013/12/nikes- waterless-dye-factory-cuts-energy-use-60/ Miller, D. T. (2014, October 10). Sarah Soule: How Activism Can Fuel Corporate Social
10 Responsibility. Retrieved October 29, 2018, from https://www.gsb.stanford.edu/insights/sarah-soule-how-activism-can-fuel-corporate- social-responsibility Nag, O. S. (2018, April 17). The World's Most Polluting Industries. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.worldatlas.com/articles/the-top-10-polluting-industries-in-the- world.html Newell, A. (2015, June 18). How Nike Embraced CSR and Went From Villain to Hero. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.triplepundit.com/special/roi-of- sustainability/how-nike-embraced-csr-and-went-from-villain-to-hero/ Nike, Inc. (2017). MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE MINIMUM IMPACT. Retrieved October 29, 2018. Nike, Inc. (2018, May 15). Did You Know 75% Of All Nike Product Contains Recycled Material? Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://news.nike.com/news/sustainable- innovation-air-bag-manufacture Nike, Inc. (2018). Waste. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://sustainability.nike.com/waste Nike, Inc. (2018, January 18). Nike Takes Steps Toward 100% Renewable Energy in North America. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://news.nike.com/news/nike-renewable- energy-wind-farm PledgeSports. (2018, September 21). 10 Biggest Sports Brands in the World. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.pledgesports.org/2018/01/10-biggest-sports-brands-in-the- world/ Timmus, M. (2013, May 8). When it comes to branding, just do it right. Retrieved October 29, 2018, fromhttps://www.worldfinance.com/strategy/corporate-governance-strategy/when-
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11 it-comes-to-branding-just-do-it-righ Wilsey, M., & Lichtig, S. (2018). The Nike Controversy. Retrieved October 29, 2018, from https://web.stanford.edu/class/e297c/trade_environment/wheeling/hnike.html