Street Wear Assignment - Virgil Abloh

VIRGIL ABLOH

SYNOPSIS
Street wear style of fashion is a mixture of California skateboarding, Japanese Street
fashion, hip hop and modern culture. Normally the casual and comfortable jeans or t-shirt
with sneakers was generally accepted in Los Angeles by the late 1970’s and 1980’s. This
research considers the impact of street wear on the fashion industry and how luxury brands
are evolving with them. The research looks specifically at Virgil Abloh who is from the
generation of young designer who made a name for themselves within hip hop’s fashion
industry and now he is the head of a luxury brand named Louis Vuitton. In 2013 he founded
his own fashion house name Off-White, in Milan-based where he was working as chief
executive officer (CEO). With Kanye West who is rapper Virgil Abloh did his internship at
Fendi. Then Virgil Abloh was named as one among 100 most influential people in world in
2018. So in eliminating these differences Hip Hop fashion and style raised as sound, brave
and completely new form of art while many of the critics calling it as violent, vulgar,
misogynistic, materialistic, racist and homophobic. In the end it could be concluded that if
anyone is celebrating diversity within fashion industry then this could be regarded to as very
much early as there are many gems who are about to come forward. As it is also noted out
from this whole report that only 3 black men making it to as creative directors in such big
fashion house and industry is sign of achievement.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I am grateful to all of those with whom I have had the pleasure to work during the
project related to Virgil Abloh and other related project. Each of the members of my
Dissertation Committee has provided me extensive personal and professional guidance and
taught me a great deal about both scientific research and life in general. Nobody has been
more important to me in the pursuit of this project than the members of my family. I would
like to thank my parents, whose love and guidance are with me in whatever I pursue. They
are the ultimate role models. As my teacher and mentor, he has taught me more than I could
ever give him credit for here. He has shown me, by his example, what a good scientist (and
person) should be.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................................................5
1.1 Background of research...................................................................................................5
1.2 History hip hop culture into fashion................................................................................6
1.3 Virgil Abloh.....................................................................................................................7
CHAPTER 1..............................................................................................................................8
Hip pop culture.......................................................................................................................8
Impact of hip pop culture into fashion...................................................................................9
CHAPTER 2............................................................................................................................13
Street wears..........................................................................................................................13
Street wears evolving into high ends fashion.......................................................................13
CHAPTER 3............................................................................................................................17
Virgil Abloh.........................................................................................................................17
Virgil Abloh vision for street wear......................................................................................18
CONCLUSION........................................................................................................................22
REFERENCES.........................................................................................................................23

INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of research
Street wear style of fashion is a mixture of California stakeboarding, Japanese Street
fashion, hip hop and modern culture. Normally the casual and comfortable jeans or t-shirt
with sneakers was generally accepted in Los Angeles by the late 1970’s and 1980’s (What is
street wear fashion, 2018). There is a number of street wear fashion brands working and
currently operating at global level including Ocean Pacific, Off Shore and Life’s a Beach.
While on other hand luxury brands mean those brands in clothing which symbolise class,
standard and elite which is affiliated with luxury, high price and quality (Bain, 2018).
Example of one of most luxury brands in clothing is those of Tommy Hilfiger, Louis Vuitton
and Burberry.
Luxurious fashion and clothing brands are now collaborating with other street wear
labels like that of Vetements and Supreme. These is mainly done by the luxury brand as they
want something new and cool in their fashion, which will attract customers. During the
Autumn and Winter collection of 2017 (AW2017), Louis Vuitton introduced six pop up
shops that for a limited time only at which they announced a street wear label. All after this
various other brands like that Tommy Hilfiger, Supreme and Vetements also introduced street
wear collection by the partnership with street wear fashion houses. Virgil Abloh, who is
regarded to as the most famous fashion designer in the category of street wear collection,
joined as CEO at Louis Vuitton which is one of the luxurious fashion brand.
This research considers the impact of street wear on the fashion industry and how
luxury brands are evolving with them. The research looks specifically at Virgil Abloh who is
from the generation of young designer who made a name for themselves within hip hop’s
fashion industry and now he is the head of a luxury brand named Louis Vuitton (About Virgil
Abloh, 2018). He is changing the collection from cool and easy to wear street fashion that a
new generation of consumers want. The research paper is also covering impact of Virgil on
fashion industry as he is the first African American to reach such great post. He is also
inspiration for youth of his region and impacting the high end fashion industry with his hip
hop cultural.
Aim
To analysis the impact of street wears in respect to Virgil Abloh within the fashion
industry especially on luxury brands.
Objective

 To analysis the impact of hip pop culture into fashion
 To investigate street wears evolving into high end fashion
 To discuss Virgil Abloh’s vision for street wear
Rationale
When Virgil Abloh became artistic director of Louis Vuitton it marked as major step
into the fashion industry, as he was the first black person to be a part of such a large luxury
brand in its 164 year history. He is considered to as prince of hip hop design who is ascended
onto throne of major French fashion label as director of Louis Vuitton men’s wear collection.
Abloh is the first black man making debut of his career he is also first man at this position
who is not belonging to New York City but is from Illinois. So this research is mostly based
on development of Virgil Abloh the modern vision of luxurious brands entering into fashion
industry. It is very important to find out the impact of hip pop culture into fashion industry as
the street wear is evolving into high end fashion. The impact and role in this increase in trend
and demand of street wear of Virgil Abloh is very important to study so that future of fashion
industry could be analysed.
Research question
1. What is the impact of hip pop culture into fashion?
2. How street wear evolved into high ends fashion?
3. What is Virgil Abloh vision for street wear?
1.2 History hip hop culture into fashion
Hip hop fashion is mainly complementing all attitudes, expression and style of
wearing clothes. This type of fashion is prominently changing since the time of its invention
in late 1970’s and 1980’s and this is now one of the most popular type of fashion all across
world and especially among people. This is also called to as big fashion which is having very
different style of wearing cloths it originate in New York City, Africa and Latin America.
Thereafter, it has grown to later parts of world including like that of Atlanta, San Francisco,
Chicago, Houston and Virginia (Sulima, 2018). In the year 1960 when Black Arts Movement
started it showed the cultural dress within the mixture of modern fashion and West African
tradition clothing in creating African- American traditional style. In early 1990’s this type of
fashion evolved gradually after 1980 when people began to get affected by traditional
African-American culture or dressing style. This includes larger pants, brighter colour and
head cap or other accessories. In 1989, Cross Colour was recognized as a first street wear
brand with the tagline of Clothes without prejudice. Cross Colour was mainly targeting the

black youth of Africa and other nations as they were the ones who faced prejudice based on
their colour and minority in America. Celebrities like Will Smith, Muhammad Ali and TLC
were known for wearing this brand. But eventually as the brand emerged as one of the most
popular street fashion wear in world it is now seeking their aim as equality, empowerment
and unity.
After the 1990 lot of hip hop artist began to start their own labelled brands for their
individual fashion lines. Some of the most prominent of them are like that of Eminem’s
Shady Limited, Wu-Tang Clan’s Wu-Wear, 50 Cent started G-Unit Clothing and Jay-Z’s
Rocawear. It was thought that the upcoming generation would have a preference for hip hop
fashion, including that of skinny jeans and cap or accessories with it.
1.3 Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh is an American fashion designer, music producer and DJ currently
working as director of Louis Vuitton’s men collection since March 2018. He was born on
30th September 1980 in Illinois, USA in house of Ghanaian immigrant parents. His mother
was dress maker, and it is from her that he developed his passion for fashion and was inspired
to become designer. Virgil Abloh graduated from the University of Wisconsin in year 2002
with degree of Bachelor of Science in Civil engineering and then Master’s at Illinois Institute
of Technology in Architecture in 2006 (A Brief History of Virgil Abloh’s Meteoric Rise,
2018).
In 2013 he founded his own fashion house name Off-White, in Milan-based where he
was working as chief executive officer (CEO). With Kanye West who is rapper Virgil Abloh
did his internship at Fendi. Then Virgil Abloh was named as one among 100 most influential
people in world in 2018. After he became artistic director of Louis Vuitton he was the 1st
African to lead such huge brand in menswear (Milnes, 2018). In 2011 Virgil Abloh received
Grammy Awards for best recording package, then in 2017 by British Fashion Awards and
then named among 100 most influential designers in 2018. Virgil Abloh was named as prince
of pop design as he took over the major French fashion house as he made his mark as street
wear designer.

CHAPTER 1
Hip pop culture
According to Holyst, (2018) Hip hop or Hip pop culture is that type which emerged in
late 1970’s and mid of 1980’s with the impact of sportswear and fashion brand like that of
Adidas and Le Coq Sportif. Many of the hip hop dance and music stars were wearing cloths
like that of brightly colour like that of tracksuits and bomber jackets made of leather. Other
than cloths there was also hair style which were put into fashion like that of Jheri Curl in
early 1980’s and hi-top fade in 1990’s by Will Smith. There was also various types of
accessories that included within this trend of hip hop fashion like eyeglasses, heavy jewellery
like that of gold chains and neck piece bucket hats, name belts multiple rings. This culture
was highly having the impact of celebrities like that of rappers, musicians, dancers and
singers. As included by Bosek, (2018) they created and popularised this hip hop culture more
in world who were regarded to as trend setter. Hip hop culture is most widely adopt culture in
all countries and parts of world which help in transforming traditional to modern day cool
communities.
Figure 1: Men wearing hip hop style cloths with chain and caps.
[Source: Bosek, 2018]
This type of style or culture is mainly originated among youth of African American
and Latin American then reached out to rest parts of world including America, Africa, Asia
and Australia, hip hop fashion is today complementing with each style and expression and

attitude of person carrying that. It is also emerging as carrying out significant amount of
changes within fashion industry in all parts of world and among all ethnic group.
Apart from these increasing trends of this type of fashion there is some strong
criticism that surrounds the Hip Hop culture around the world. According to view of Pough,
(2015) many fans are disappointed by the growing number of promotion campaigns that are
organised by the leading and expensive Hip Hop brands into magazines (Street-wear gets a
luxe makeover, 2018). In one of the letter to editor of Source magazine it was written that
company must be making their efforts in showing some less expensive brands as well so
youth will not try to steal or rob them from stores. There are many incidents of robbery from
many big artists of hip hop in late 1990’s like $300000 of jewellery was robbed by Prodigy,
car from Queen Latifah and Rolex watch by Guru of Gang Starr as explained by Viktoriia,
(2018).
As per Rubinstein, (2018) hip hop is very much influenced by race and ethnicity of
people especially those belonging to Africa and Latin American region. Hip hop is emerged
to as reaction of gang culture and violence of South Bronx in 1970’s as there the people were
daily leading their life with racism, poverty, violence, neglect and crime as well. This type of
fashion and style was always matter of discussion based on topic like that of race,
transformation of racial and racial injustices as well. As it is involved that in this current
world every one want become cool which is very easy but remaining cool is important as in
include being dynamic and constantly changing. It is also highly influential with the role and
involvement of Black people in this fashion industry. As it is experienced that many
Americans termed to as white people also idolising the trends which are adopted or innovated
by Black culture and they are also having desire to be part of African American. This is
always included by Thompson, (2013) to as negative impact of African American on the
fashion industry all across the world
Impact of hip pop culture into fashion
Within the time frame of past 3 decades Hip Hop culture is been the fastest movement
that is reaching and spreading to several parts of world as said by Gloe, (2016). This
movement begun in 1970’s when South Bronx was under race riots and government
neglecting the social service programs this made the international symbol of urban despair.
During these riots there were many residents of this area living in very inhuman conditions
like they were lacking very basic necessities of water electricity. Many buildings and middle
class occupants were under mass evacuation which brought squatters and addicts within the

city. These riots were very much extensive as about 40% of the lands or buildings during the
time of 1970-1980 were abandoned.
So in eliminating these differences Hip Hop fashion and style raised as sound, brave
and completely new form of art while many of the critics calling it as violent, vulgar,
misogynistic, materialistic, racist and homophobic. As it was also included with the view
point of Washington, (2018) that hip hop fashion and music always played role in openly
speaking about black urban poverty. In year 1982 it was witnessed that fashion designer
Dapper Dan opened boutique store at 125 New York street which was selling cloths with fake
logos on them from the famous luxury house fashion brand like that of Gucci and Louis
Vuitton. When this news was spread all across American these fashion brands sued Dapper
Dan and shut down the store.
In year 1990 Tommy Hilfiger was one of the major brand for increasing the influence
of street culture. In the present time it is included that Hip Hop is one of largest cultural
exports and luxury industry of America with having major celebrities endorsing for major
fashion brands. So it is noted by Bradley, (2017) that hip hop and street wear culture is
slowly taking over and conquering the high fashion. The year 2017 was celebrated to as 44th
year of emergence of hip hop culture which includes the blend of art, finesse and style. There
are many factors which contributed within the growth of popularity of hip hop but then also
there are very few which are noticeable in the world of fashion.
According to Kruse, (2016) definition of hip hop it is highly included that it is that
style which reflects regional preference, personal narrative and mobility which is also seen in
current look. With the involvement of many celebrities and singers or rappers like that of Jay
Z, Russell Simmons and Sean Combs in way of hip hop fashion industry also have their
special role. This is slowly becoming more transcultural expression as brands are selling their
products and other than this the rappers and singers are also increasing popularity within
industry as well. This will be moreover reflecting form of relaxed fashion of street life
connected with mass shows like that of MTV videos. There are some of the very common
and necessary things to wear in this type of culture like that of mixed match dresses,
oversized cloths, sportswear items and high end cloths as well.

Figure 2: Impact of hip hop fashion on women
[Source: Petchauer, 2015]
As per the view of Petchauer, (2015) there is also significant influence of ladies or
women within this fashion industry. The bold and vibrant colours of Salt N Pepa were there
on forefront which was both mix and match of song and their sense of style. These women
fashion with Hip Hop industry included that of body suits, bamboo earrings, colourful ball
jackets and hair styles. In the latest sense the New York Fashion Week of 2017 by Marc
Jacob’s was one of the great inspiration from the hip hop culture in somewhat classic way.
According to view point of Maddock and Andrew, (2018) many of the luxurious brands are
now attempting into culture diversity which shows that fashion is very extremely relying only
on hip hop nowadays. There are many luxurious brands then also which are recognising very
importance of hip hop culture with being and looking smart and appreciating as well. As all
these big fashion brands have recognised the very importance of hip hop culture that it
matters very much even more than it was in past.

Figure 3: Model in New York Fashion Week of 2017 by Marc Jacob’s
[Source: Maddock and Andrew, 2018]
As explained by Macedo, (2015) this as reason behind Virgil Abloh is creating most
of this videos and album cover for Lil Uzi Vert who is the American rapper and also coming
into partnership with Nike for Off White. This is both a luxury and street wear brand of Italy
but was founded by American creative designer and DJ Virgil Abloh in year 2012. Off White
is that brand which specialise into high end street wear with luxurious clothing section for
both men and women. Off White is also having about 24 stores all over the world with selling
products like that of clothing, shoes, accessories and furniture as well.
As it could be included by Hietanen, Sihvonen and Tikkanen, (2018) that there was
very much noticed that the senior level executives of famous fashion brands leave their
position after any sort of failure. Like it was the case into DXNY which is one of the most
luxurious brands the creative Director and Brand Chief Executive left the company within
less than 2 years. According to Van de Peer, (2014) this is very much rare that 3 of the top
executive of leading fashion house are leaving. While this happened 2 times in the history of
the contemporary fashion as in 2004 at the time when Tom Ford left Gucci and then in 2014
designer Frida Giannini was dismissed by Gucci.

CHAPTER 2
Street wears
This is a kind of style which is primarily rooted into suburban area of California and
gradually grown up as having several elements like that of hip hop and Japanese fashion.
Whereas high end fashion as included by Juzbasic, (2017) is called to as luxurious in house
fashion which is expressing or leading to status symbol. But this street wear at one point of
time was not regarded to as only street fashion which symbolised to as coolness not luxury.
High end fashion is type which is considered to as expensive and quality of items. Brands
like that of Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Supreme, Moschino and Louis Vuitton are
regarded to as high end and luxurious fashion house brands.
After first black men became the head of one of the most luxurious brands of world it
was noticed or marked to as area of change and evolution of street wear into high end fashion
as introduced by Del Hierro, (2014). Virgil Abloh becomes artistic director of Louis Vuitton
in 2018 March as he served to as founder and director of Off White which is Italian street
wear and high end brand. He is regarded to as changing point of view of many critics who
think that luxurious fashion is something completely different from street wear or hip hop
fashion. His sense of fashion and including street wear within the high end fashion is one of
the basic reason of evolution of fashion industry. It is regarded by Al-khairi, Wibisono and
Putro, (2017) that street fashion is since the intake of Virgil onto the famous fashion brand of
Louis Vuitton it was then the industry is being turned on its head. It was also noted that the
simple and cool graphic t-shirts are now holding more higher value than that of Italian leather
this is stronger sign of how fashion industry is been taken over. Street wear is not just simply
a phenomenon but establishing itself as heavy athletic wear as well.
Street wears evolving into high ends fashion
As included by Sola-Santiago, (2017) the reason behind this evolution of street wear into
that of high end fashion could be that of people living into the age of image-centric of
Facebook and Instagram. It is also involved that street wear fashion is known to be very
much loud which will be moreover regulated by movements of social media. As per one of
the study which was conducted in 2017 by one of the consulting firm Bain and Company it
was concluded that street wear which is now called to as luxurious in itself will help into
boosting up the global level sales by 5% each year which is estimated to be as €263 billion.
It was also included that Hietanen, Sihvonen and Tikkanen, (2018) due to
involvement of social media trend like that of #TFWGucci which campaign was headed by

Gucci is more growing the street wear occupy their larger space in the upper class people.
Under the leadership of Alessandro Michele Gucci is more growing its penetrating into wider
depth of market with the help of this growing social media influence on street wear. But more
before appointment of Virgil Louis Vuitton was into collaboration with Supreme which is
New York based label very well-known into street wear. This is the main reason as to why
most of the high end fashion house is not imitating street wear or hip hop fashion while they
are coping the model of drop into their characteristic as well. Under this segment it was
included by Pough, (2015) that most of streets wear, house release their limited collection of
items mostly overnight so that people need to wait in lines or queue for hours.
As elaborated by Shanks, (2017) in year 2017 Supreme sold its shares worth $1
billion to the private firm known to as Carlyle Group which is also regarded to as very high
point for fashion industry. Most of the cloths which people are carrying are more or less
becoming casual like people are getting their inspiration from sports and leading towards
sweatshirts and sneakers. This is the reason why hip hop culture is too much leading into
dominant musical form from getting over the fashion industry as well. Then also most of the
people include that this hip hop culture is becoming or influencing due to increased peoples
motivation towards casual cloths and social media. Even with so much influence and profits
which street wear is making luxury is not too much associated with prestigious rather than by
dirty word. Rubinstein, (2018) also said that there are many women who carry or wear this
type of fashion but then it is still remain to as male dominated area. The street wear or hip
hop culture is more likely linked with giving emphasis on graphic tees and sweatshirts which
are typically for men only
However it was included that street wear and hip hop fashion is more having blend or
mixture of various type of style like that of military pieces, casuals, sportswear, hip hop and
urban culture. All of them are very important part of fashion but mostly when people see
black and non-white models into casual looks they assume it to be as street wear only. As
included by Bennett, (2017) whenever anyone is buying the street wear in respect of price or
value which he is giving he will not pay for the quality of garment neither for most
handcrafted rather they are paying for that particular subculture. This means that the person
wants to be part of that culture or is being the part of it by buying it.
But certainly for luxury brand they need to identify their customer and they will be
hiring right designer who could be able to make what customer want explained by Sharpley-
Whiting, (2017). There are many luxury brands like that of Burberry and Louis Vuitton
which are meant to work with the street or hip hop wear so that they could be able to design

what today’s customer is demanding. As explained by Washington, (2018) this is not what is
only happening in America or African nations but the East Asian countries are also adopting
it most frequently. Like Vetements which is a French fashion house opened one day only
Hong Kong sale in 2017 November. Director of Fashion in Lane Crawford Kelly Wong
stated that importance of social media is increasing which is one of the most prominent retail
store selling luxury designer goods in Hong Kong. She also included that the increasing
importance of social media and many movements included within this is also leading to
spread of street wear to much greater influence. The fashion labels are selling their cloths and
luxuries goods with limited only offers which are making somewhere sense of urgency
among people.
According to Orejuela, (2015) there are many luxury brands of fashion which are
presenting their sense of fashion with the mix and match of fashion including street wear
touch as well. Mostly the young customers are making their impact on these fashion brands
this is also attracting the attention of brands towards company’s making collaborations with
each other. Many street wear brands are increasing their customer and fan base in these recent
years like that of Supreme, Vetements and Off White. Athleisure is also one of the fashion
which is trending in today’s culture along with hip hop and street wear. This is a kind of
clothing that majorly involve the impact of designer with workouts and other athletic
activities worn together at workplace and gym etc. thus Athleisure includes that of yoga
outfits, tights, leggings, shorts and sneakers which all together look like athletic wear. As
included by Mitchell, (2017) this athleisure is also regarded to as movement or revolution of
fashion industry that is improving way textile materials could be used as cloths. The reason
behind this idea is to be more comfortable, versatile and fashionable in its own sense.
In year 2016 the market size or value of this sector was about $83 billion which
increased to about 16% to $44 billion. While in Asian region the market size of athleisure the
growth of market is predict with that of 30% by 2020. Then there is also increase in
competition within this sector of fashion clothing and big retailers like that of Wal-Mart are
making too much profits out of this. According to Alvermann, Hagwood and Hagood, (2018)
there are many points or reasons which are impacting the increasing trend and customers of
athleisure is that related to social, technology and environment. There is huge mass of people
from around the world who are moving towards living healthier life which is linked with
fitness. Many people are having their contribution towards sports which is joined with
competition and clubs as well. Other than these new fibre which is enabled with reduction of
odour, fully stretchable to shape of body and easily breathing in and out is also related to

materials of clothing. One of the type of athleisure is also called to a technical wear which is
describing the cloths to be more comfortable and suitable to wear while working. On the
other hand it was criticized by Crewe, (2016) that the materials which are used within the
formation of athleisure may be having negative impact upon environment. This is due to fact
that they are using dyes and polyfluorinated chemicals and solvents that is making the
material stain, water and grease resistant. So many of the luxury fashion designers will be
inspire with street wear and more by athleisure wear elements in making their stuff
comfortable.
Many luxury brands like that of Valentino also involved athleisure collection within
the impact of sports and street wear by launching its Resort 2018 Collection that was in
VLTN campaign. Then after that collaboration or partnership of Louis Vuitton with famous
street wear brands like that of Fragment and Supreme also was of great profits. BRAIL,
Brydges and LESLIE, (2015) raised his view that all upcoming shows like that of spring and
summer collection of 2018 will be again inspired by street style fashion only. Further it was
also added that these street wear is more focusing on individualism which means that person
concern with owns style statement and trying to get themselves fit into that fashion or cloth.
There are many type of measures which luxury fashion brands are adopted to make their
street wear more popular like that of resorting to celebrity influence, impact of urban factors
onto their collections, Omni channel campaigns and then working onto the collaborations as
well.

CHAPTER 3
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh was born on 30 September 1980 in Rockford Illinois in the house of
Ghanaian immigrant parents and his mother was a dress maker from where he got his
inspiration to become designer (History of Virgil Abloh’s, 2018). While his father was
managing his own Paint Company and raised him into this middle class suburb of Chicago.
He started his career in 2009 after his internship with Kenye West in Fendi which is the
luxurious fashion house of Italy. Kenye West in year 2010 appointed Virgil as his creative
director in DONDA which was his own agency where they both were working as
collaborative partners. Then after this Virgil in year 2012 started his own company named
Pyrex Vision that was known for its street wear collection but very soon he dismissed this
idea.
Then in 2013 he started his new complete range of creative collection named Off-
White that was having its base at Milan. As he was having idea of both combination of street
wear and luxury cloths as well with joining idea, creativity, art, music and traveling. This
name was given by him only that states that grey area between white and black is Off-White
(About Virgil Abloh, 2018). At starting when he launched this brand it was only having men
collection that in 2014 he launched special women collection as well in the Paris Fashion
Week. Other than this Virgil also worked with Levi’s, Warby Parker, Nike, Moncler, Jimmy
Choo and VLONE
Figure 4: Exclusive: the 'Ten Icons reconstructed' project by Off-White™ x Nike Inc.
[Source: About Virgil Abloh, 2018]

After his impact on clothing section he also started his wide range of furniture under
the brand name of Off-White only which featured tables, chairs and benches in iron grid and
leather cushion included by Orejuela, (2015). Then in year 2017 he started with his
partnership with Nike in order to re-create 10 which is the silhouettes of Nike in that was
having safety tag around the lace of shoe. But this was only of limited collection sneakers
which were launched into market while working into partnership with Nike. Then in 2018 he
was the first black man to entre as creative director of Louis Vuitton men’s wear collection
which was once headed by Kim Jones. This is when he influence the high fashion wear as
working for so many years as a street or hip hop designer and then working with company
which is called as luxurious brand is something very big.
Figure 5: Luxury fashion brands
[Source: Ghebil, Peterström Larsson and Cancarevic, 2018]
The high end fashion was always in dictating position but then whole thing which was
reversed by entry of Virgil into world of luxurious fashion. It was also noted that at time
when Virgil was working within Off-White sales of brand was increased to 230% each year
and then making brand’s entry into Paris Fashion Week in 2014.
Virgil Abloh vision for street wear
The appointment of Virgil Abloh from world of hip hop culture to that of luxury
fashion is something of very importance for the fashion industry itself. As in this current
scenario it is looked up to as most of bigger brands are struggling for their entry into new

generation’s mind at the same time Virgil into Louis Vuitton will mark this as intelligent step
by company. It was before Virgil, Kim Jones was also known to unite street and high fashion
clothing with his partnership with Supreme in order to produce and sell cloths. Kim Jones
also worked with Dinos Chapman for creating unique pieces which was used by people for
their collection purpose (Jermyn, 2016). Virgil is known for his creative nature, disruptive
approach and popularity among celebrity working with vision of transforming fashion
industry.
Virgil is somewhere also regarded to as very sensible creative director of Louis
Vuitton that is helping the company taking into future of men’s wear (What Virgil Abloh’s
New Appointment Really Means for Black Designers, 2018). For the coming or present
generation it is very important that they are knowing what is new within the fashion industry
and what companies are adding by their side. So Virgil is intended to create or define new
ethos for what people need to wear and to create whole new version of luxury. From the view
of Bly, S., Gwozdz and Reisch, (2015) it is also included that for an African American Virgil
appointment into world’s famous luxurious company is the stepping stone for all black
designers into the French house. It is also called to be the usher or guiding generation or time
where all sort of diversity is been celebrated and tested as well. This entry into world’s
biggest fashion house is seen as win for culture and for people from where he belongs to and
creating new path for young black.
According to de Perthuis, (2016) this is honour for all black people as only few of
them are heading high profile luxury fashion brands like that of Shayne Oliver, Olivier
Rousteing and Virgil Abloh is new name in this list. This is also sign that whole fashion
industry is now becoming more inclusive of colour of people. They are celebrating the choice
of Virgil into the industry which means that it is no more only for white people. Although
Peters, (2014) indicated that this is only starting step for removal of racism with industry as
this is very much consistence within the practise of industry. It is also old saying that all
black people need to work more hard than the white for getting much little that them which is
very common in every other industry as well.
Just like Virgil Shayne Oliver also started his own brand that too independently and
then elected as the creative head of Helmut Lang (Alonso, 2018). as both of them are having
ability to be creative, styling something newly and also attracting the white people with this
quality. This ability is generally pioneered by black people and then they are attracting people
with the street wear and now with luxury fashion as well. as per Ghebil, Peterström Larsson
and Cancarevic, (2018) both Hood By Air (HBA) and Off White is known to as threat for

setting up benchmark for luxury fashion while they are also competing with the younger
audience who are more indulge with the fashion house like that of Louis Vuitton.
As far as the other white designers are concern career journey of Virgil and Shayne is
completely different. For reaching till the title of creative director of huge fashion house
which starts at being intern, then assistant, design head and then to current position is very
difficult for Virgil and Shayne. This is only due to their colour as black people are mostly
excluded because of their skin colour which is very common in every industry. Okonkwo,
(2016) also included that fashion industry is also known for its offering of unpaid internship
to the black and brown Americans. As they could not afford to work long hours in such low
salary or for free this is the reason black people are lacking with good connections within
industry. In this matter Virgil is regarded as exception to the rule as he worked as an intern in
Fendi at age of 25 with Kanye West who was celebrity in himself.
As per the view of Orejuela, (2015) then fashion industry is known as male
domination sector as all the 3 creative director of high fashion house are all man this is
revealing masculine characteristic of industry. This shows that for black female designers the
situation is even worse and it’s more difficult to make on top of fashion houses. But certainly
there is small list of these women’s like Aurora James of Brother Vellies and of Cushnie-et
Ochs Carly Cushnie who are making themselves as power within fashion industry that too
independently. While it will take much time to give them opportunity as working on top of
such big luxury fashion houses.
However, Van de Peer, (2014) indicated that all these notorious reputation of fashion
industry which is making discrimination between white and black could not overshadow the
selection of Virgil into Louis Vuitton. Thus this event created history so it should always be
deserving celebration from all across the world to acknowledge the black community. He is
solely representing his culture and place from where he belongs to for having its exclusive
image of skills and creativity.
As explored by Washington, (2018) branding is the most important means of selling
and marketing of products to customers as it is also regarded to as purchase criteria for
customers. This is very much witnessed in the case of fashion products and its related
accessories like that of sunglasses, perfumes and handbags as well. It could be noted that
brands are clearly reflecting reputation of business and that of company into the mind of
customer and now they are inclined towards environment perspective as well. Explained by
Milnes, (2018) all the multinational brands are dealing with the sustainability requirement but
it is not possible for looking forward in respect with all standard. It could be understood that

Virgil is having very greater impact on the fashion industry as he is meant to transform high
end fashion into street wear as well. The change in culture is been depicted in the fashion
which he introducing to world. This is all about how the culture is changing with cloths and
fashion and is all about hope, diversity, dreaming, possibility and beauty as well. The shift of
genres is taking place on larger scale which it meaning of luxury is also modifying. As
explained by Sulima, (2018) that new technologies and use of 3D and 4D printing on cloths
especially shirts is very much in trend. This could clearly define the power of new
transformed technologies which is used by fashion industry and the building up of brand
image. Virgil presented his Off-White collection which witnessed the mixed critical response
from the fashion experts around the world. As he included that there should be new with the
mix of luxury and street wear fashion that will be shaping and outlining the new stuff. There
were many type of new distinctions which arose within fashion industry like related to
aesthetic wear, nightclub couture and all of them were beyond street wear democratic (Bain,
2018). All these sort of designers which were introducing their impact within fashion house
were all witnessing collapsing distinction in fashion and then creating new reality as well.

CONCLUSION
In the end it could be concluded that if anyone is celebrating diversity within fashion
industry then this could be regarded to as very much early as there are many gems who are
about to come forward. As it is also noted out from this whole report that only 3 black men
making it to as creative directors in such big fashion house and industry is sign of
achievement. Virgil is making path for all young black men so that they could experiment
with their talent and creativity more exclusively. The time when he was announced to be
creative director of Louis Vuitton it was regarded to as historic moment. In the coming time
of year 2019 master piece and artwork of Virgil Abloh will be subjected of exhibition with
Museum of Contemporary Art in his own land of Chicago. The influence of Virgil on the
fashion industry will be more on the other African American designer as they would be
motivated to join fashion industry as well. The impact of Virgil and his sense of fashion is
also very much on high end brands who are now introducing their hip hop fashion cloths as
well.
There are many important points which need to be considered from the report that
Virgil being the most awaited directors of fashion industry is regarded to have impact on
luxury fashion house. He is one of the first black man who is able to have position into
fashion industry by being the creative director of Louis Vuitton. This is his modern vision of
luxurious brands which are entering into fashion industry for both Off-White and Louis
Vuitton. His impact of street wear and hip hop culture and clothing within fashion industry is
regarded to as changing collection from class to street wear. He is termed to as coming out of
generation of young black designers who is working with ship hop artist and making the
luxurious brands coming into limelight.

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